In this article I’ll tell you exactly how I did so. With common sense, zero trickery, and no pyramid schemes either!

The truth is most Australians pay hundreds of bucks extra for no real gain on a regular set of tyres. Most of the time you’ll even drive away thinking you got a great deal or discount, but did you?

We used the online tyre retailer Tyroola to buy these tyres, but it’s not just about online discounts – to really save money all you need is a few simple tips to choose the right tyre for your needs (read on and you’ll find how easy it is to really save money!)

Ready to save money on your next set of tyres?

Buy your tyres online, and have them fitted by a local tyre fitter!

This is my first tip, but not my best tip!

Consider the last time you bought tyres from a big name tyre shop. Were you aware it wasn’t just tyres you were paying for, but the following:

• Fancy premises in a premium local location.
• A comfortable waiting room, complete with plot plants and coffee you believed was “free”.
• Customer-facing service staff.
• You can also argue big name tyre shops can capitalise on their reputation by charging you a little more for your tyres.

Online tyre retailers don’t need any of that stuff, which is great for us as we don’t want to pay for that stuff either!

“But I like to support local businesses!” I hear you say!

No guilt required, as not only are online tyre retailers cheaper, they support your local tyre fitters as well.

With Tyroola, you can choose from a list of local tyre fitters based on what works best for you, and the tyres will be shipped directly to them. Many of them will come to you and change the tyres on your driveway.

This means you’re supporting a real local independent business, and saving money in the process!

But read on, as you’re going to save even more money with our next tips!

Why do we spend too much on tyres?

Did you know most of us spend significant money on tyres built for speeds up to 270km/h?

I don’t know about you, but when did your speedo needle hit north of 110km/h? Even in the NT you can’t legally go over 130km/h, so why would you buy tyres built for over double those speeds?

Most premium tyres from big name brands like Michelin, Bridgestone or Pirelli are utterly pointless on your Honda Odyssey, but a tyre shop won’t tell you this – these are the tyres they make the biggest profits on.

In fact, most of the time a tyre shop will convince you you’re getting a great deal on tyres you didn’t really need in the first place!

Did you know all of those brands sell tyres far more appropriate for your daily, for far cheaper, and most of us would never be able to tell the difference!

Keep this in mind:

It’s not a bargain if you didn’t need it anyway.

Technical stuff: Understanding tyre ratings

If technical stuff bores you to tears, don’t worry. Skip this part and scroll down to the section How I saved $352 on a set of tyres for my road car where I kitted my Honda Civic out with a set of Kumho’s from Tyroola (which are fab, by the way).

If you’re a true car geek, let’s take a look at tyre ratings…

All brands and types of tyre must undergo tests to determine key performance factors such as treadwear, durability, traction, resistance to temperature, and so forth. These are important metrics, but if you research a little further you’ll find almost all tyres sold in Australia are perfectly safe for road use. We can use this to our advantage.

Ask yourself this: What’s the fastest you plan to drive on Australian roads?

Don’t worry, I won’t judge – you can keep your answer to yourself.

Now consider this: Most Australians opt for tyres rated V or W. V is rated up to 240km/h and W up to 270km/h. Both over twice the top speed of a Cheetah chasing a Gazelle!

The chart below shows various tyre ratings and the max speed they’re capable of:

You can see from this chart that even a lowly N rated tyre easily caters for Australian speed limits.

Personally I wouldn’t recommend buying the cheapest budget tyres. Some won’t give you enough grip on the corners, and some won’t last as long as you expect. It’s therefore better to consider an H rated tyre a good middle ground, and we’ll look at which tyre brands are best later.

Keep in mind a V or W rated tyre will provide little benefit over cheaper tyres unless you plan on hitting the track or supermarket carpark at weekends or early hours.

Can you guess how much cheaper an H rated tyre is compared to a W rated tyre?

Something for you to research…!

Brands – Which tyres are best?

In Australia we’re lucky to have a great mix of tyre brands, from big name premium brands, reputable Japanese and Korean brands, and also budget tyres made locally or sourced from China.

Which tyres are best for you depends on application. Do you drive your Suzuki Ballina to Coles once a week, rarely topping 50km/h, or do you spiritedly drive your Nissan Skyline as much as Aussie road laws allow?

Let’s take a look at which tyres are best for you…

Premium tyre brands – Pirelli, Bridgestone, Michelin, Goodyear

It has to be said premium brands such as Pirelli, Bridgestone, and Michelin make the most scientific advancements in traction, dispersing water, and ensuring an F1 car can hit an apex at stupid speeds, and those brands may offer you the absolute best drivability on the road – for a price.

Perhaps you will only buy those brands, which brings me to a fantastic money-saving tip:

Top Tip – Did you know all premium brands offer perfectly good mid-range tyres suitable for pretty much all Australian road conditions, for a much more affordable price?

These mid-range tyres are often much cheaper than the flagship tyres on offer. You will often find excellent discounts on these tyres simply because most people are busy spending hard-earned cash on flagship brands, unnecessarily.

Goodyear are definitely up there with the best, and did you know the Dunlop brand of tyre is owned and operated by Goodyear in Australia? That means you can consider Dunlop a pretty decent tyre without having a Gucci-esque price tag.

Reputable tyre brands – Yokohama, Toyo, Kumho, Hankook

Yokohama, Toyo, and Kumho are decent brands of tyre. Anyone into the JDM (Japanese domestic market) scene usually opt for these brands, and often swear by them.

Most of the times these brands of tyre can be bought with bigger discounts if the AUD is in favour of the Yen. Kumho tyres are actually made in South Korea, a country who has made huge headway in quality over the past decades – you can even argue Korean cars are better than some Japanese cars these days for build quality and reliability.

You can consider that a fact as it come directly from my wife, who’s Korean. According to her, Korean brands are better than all other brands.

I grew up owning and racing numerous Honda CRX coupes (the wedge kind, not the hairdresser kind), and I swear the Toyo Proxes R888r tyres were the grippiest, most fun tyres I ever ran on a Honda CRX. Even back then I would find the best discounts on premium Toyo’s like the R888r by simply shopping around, and you could always get better discounts on quality Asian brands than you could with the more “premium” brands. You’re still buying quality, but without the premium price tag.

Hankook are another South Korean tyre brand worth mentioning, and although possibly not on-par with Kumho are still very usable and can often be bought with a fantastic discount.

Budget tyre brands

There are various budget tyre brands in Australia, and although some are good and may serve your purpose, I personally opt for mid-range tyres rated appropriately for my vehicle and driving needs.

Budget tyres may well be fine, but keep in mind it’s not just about tyre rating – it’s about grip, handling, and stopping ability. If you research, you may also find some budget tyre brands wear out much quicker, which can cost you more in the long run.

You may get a better discount on a budget tyre, but there’s only so far you can go before compromising quality and noise. If I were you I’d stick to the reputable tyre brands above, or the premium brands if you find a good discount.

4×4 tyre brands

I’ll skirt over this quickly as the purpose of this article is more to discus getting a discount on tyres, but if you drive a 4×4 then these are popular choices:

Premium 4×4 tyres:

• Bridgestone Dueler A/T
• BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (I drove around Australia with a set of these and they were badass)
• Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain Adventure

Other popular choices which are cheaper & still good:

• Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ P3
• Cooper Discoverer STT Pro
• Toyo Open Country M/T

Cheaper 4×4 tyres:

• Falken Wildpeak A/T3W
• Maxxis Razr MT

In Australia there are deals to be had on 4×4 tyres, but from personal experience a tyre shop will always get away with charging good money on any 16″ on larger tyres. For example, kitting out my Delica on 15″ KO2’s cost me half the price for the same tyres in 16″ for my Land Cruiser.

The reason – tyre shops know how much we’ll spend on our Land Cruisers!

Anway, the tips below will still save you hundreds of bucks, so keep reading!

How I saved $352 on a set of tyres for my road car

I conducted an experiment to find out how much we pay for tyres, and how much we pay for fitting. I discuss the experiment at length in the article How Much is Tyre Fitting, Really, but I’ll summarise the experiment here as it’s the perfect example of saving huge money on an average set of tyres.

Saving $352 was as simple as this:

• Buying tyres online instead of a conventional tyre shop
• Buying tyres suitable for my needs rather than the best I could buy (and I still ended up with very good tyres!)

Here’s how:

Step 1: Find what tyres are available, and for how much

I used Tyroola, which is so easy you’ll be amazed you didn’t use them sooner.

First I typed in my tyre profile – just type in the values on your current tyres. For me this was Width: 195, Profile: 60, Rim Size: 16.

Tyroola gave me a range of options including premium, mid-range, and budget, along with tyre ratings, noise ratings, and customer reviews.

The premium option was Bridgestone ECOPIA at $167 a corner, and cheapest option a set of Winruns (budget tyres) at $60 a corner – that’s a difference between $668 for a set of Bridgestone or $240 for the Winruns.

The nice thing about Tyroola is they tell you the price you pay just for the tyres, not including fitting. When you go to Bob Jane T-Mart, Tyrepower or K-Mart you never really know.

I actually skipped the highlighted options, and by scrolling down the page a little found a great discount on Kumho tyres:

Perfect!

31 positive 5 star reviews as well.

The Kumho tyres were also V rated, so more than enough for Australian roads, and a great deal cheaper than the Bridgestones. At $67 cheaper per corner that’s already a saving of almost $267 – and guess what, the Bridgestones were only H rated.

Much better rated tyres, for much less money!

Add To Cart!

Step 2: Choose the best local tyre fitter

When buying tyres online you first pick the tyre, then pick a local tyre fitter.

The tyres will be shipped to them, and then you either take your car to the tyre fitter or they come to you – simple.

Tyroola gave me numerous options locally (in Perth) along with feedback from people who had use their services:

This is what I love most about buying tyres online – you can pick and choose the best local tyre fitter for you. Not only that, you can see exactly how much you’re paying for fitment, and read other consumer reviews as well.

The difference in price of fitting was $108 to $192, plus the variation of wheel alignment which can be optional or included. I managed to save a fair bit (around 4 or 5 Perth-priced pints) in choosing the right tyre fitter for me, and they turned out great.

A quick summary – how much would you have spent?

Did you know most people like to be told what to buy?

Nobody likes to think.

Obviously you’re different because you’ve read this guide, so congrats – you’ll have more money in your bank to buy your girlfriend flowers when she gets annoyed at you buying car parts.

Fact is, in the scenario above, most people would’ve bought the Bridgestone ECOPIA despite being an H rated tyre at a much higher price. Usually people opt for the first option.

Those people would’ve spent $352 more on H rated tyres when you got a stonking discount on a decent set of South Korean V rated Kumho tyres, Gangnam Style!

You also know exactly how much you’re paying for the tyre, how much discount you’re really getting, and how much you’re paying for fitment and wheel balancing.

If you went to your local tyre shop, how much would you have paid for fitment?

Do you even know?

Nope!

And more than that, how much of your money would’ve gone to the upkeep of waiting room pot plants and prime-location premises?

Hopefully this guide has shown you how to get a real discount on tyres. If it has, you can say thanks in the comments!

These were days when driving was FUN!

Not like the boring electrical appliances of today.

The hot hatch – any true car enthusiast will feel the nostalgia just hearing those words. In the 80s and 90s, hot hatches RULED the streets! They weren’t just cars, they were experiences. They turned daily commutes into thrills, weekend drives into adventures, and brought us together into real enthusiast communities.

Fast-forward to today, and it’s the Abarth lineup – specifically the 500, 595, and 695 – that’s filling those shoes and then some. They even look like shoes, just nifty turbo-charged shoes oozing torque and waking up the neighbours with a really sexy exhaust note.

I never thought I would recommend a nasty unreliable Fiat as we used to refer to them a few decades ago. The Abarth range has broken that mold, and filled the void most other car manufacturers have left in a dank dusty corner.

Let’s cover all things Abarth:

Who Makes Abarth Cars?

Abarth may have Fiat’s DNA, but make no mistake – they aren’t your ordinary Fiat. In fact, they couldn’t be more different from the snail slow fashion accessories loved by younger style-conscious ladies.

Abarth, under the wing of Fiat, is all about injecting sheer drivability into small and otherwise boring shoe-like Italian shopping trolleys.

In essence, Abarth cars are born out of Italian performance spirit, and yes, they’re crafted in Turin, Italy, right next to their Fiat relatives. Having spent a great deal of time in Italy myself, I can truly appreciate the passion Italians have for cars such as this, or cars such as Ferrari, Maserati, and Lamborghini.

If you’ve ever watched the Italian Grand Prix in Monza (aka “The Temple of Speed”) you’ll know the Tifosi, the die hard Ferrari F1 fans, are some of the most passionate fans in the world.

When you drive an Abarth, which is basically a shoe impersonating a Lamborghini, you’ll feel that passion with every rev and exhaust pop.

The Abarth 500, 595, and 695: Back to Basics in All the Right Ways

Get behind the wheel of an Abarth 500, 595, or 695, and you’re instantly transported back to a time when driving was simple and exhilarating.

The handling is sharp, the exhaust pops and crackles, and the turbo engine roars, giving you that feel of raw power. Yes, they’re as bumpy as a ride-on lawnmower, but as an enthusiast you’ll appreciate how connected you are with the road. You see, the Abarth isn’t about luxury, it’s about bags of fun around town.

For city driving in Australia, the Abarth are an absolute match. You can squeeze into spots Toyota Landcruisers can only dream of.

And if you’re looking to stand out, special editions like the 695 Tributo Ferrari pay homage to Italian motoring greatness. Only 1,695 of these Ferrari-inspired Abarths were ever produced, a testament to their collector status and rarity. The downside is special editions can cost you a pretty buck, but they’re cool as f*ck.

What’s The Deal With The Scorpion Badge?

For those who’ve set eyes on the 2024 black and gold 75th anniversary edition Abarth 695, you may’ve noted the giant scorpion logo on the roof. You’ll also find it on many of the special edition decals. So what’s the deal with that?

Abarth’s scorpion logo is a nod to founder Carlo Abarth’s zodiac sign, and there’s something unmistakably cool about it. But beyond symbolism, it represents an attitude – a car that’s small but not to be underestimated, packing way more punch than most other cars on Aussie roads.

A Hint of Heritage: Abarth Collaborations

Abarth’s collaboration with Ferrari on the 695 Tributo isn’t the only time they’ve linked up with Italian legends. Abarth has also partnered with Maserati, producing one-off editions that echo Maserati’s luxury style in Abarth’s compact, feisty frame.

These collaborations showcase just how versatile and highly regarded the Abarth brand has become, standing shoulder-to-shoulder with Italy’s best.

Honestly, no other car boasts so many special editions, but that makes them so much cooler, right?

Given how limited production runs are of these cars, investing in a special edition will give you a very unique piece of history for many years to come.

More so give 2024 marks the last of the Abarth petrol cars. Move over thrilling petrol cars for fridges-on-wheels.

Hold on, on that note, we should cover the Abarth 500e…

The Abarth 500e: A Boring Electrical Appliance?

Yes, there’s an electric Abarth 500e for those of you who prefer the quiet hum of an EV.

It’s a more solid option than you may think – quick, efficient, and still insane fun despite being eerily quiet. The 500e has been one of the few electric cars which has made me think “Oh, perhaps I might give up decades of petrolheadism for an electric car like that.”

But still, for me, right now, it’s still all about the heart-pounding, rev-filled experience of a true hot hatch like the turbocharged Abarth 500, 595, and 695.

How Much is a Fiat Abarth in Australia?

If you’re tempted, you’ll be pleased to know that an Abarth 595 can start around the $30,000 AUD mark.

However, special editions and extras can rack up the price to a whole different level if you’re after something even more unique.

Bringing Back the Fun

In a world of ever-larger, more tech-packed vehicles, Abarth has brought back the soul of the hot hatch, giving us the fun, agility, and thrill we’ve all missed.

“It’s not about big screens or autonomous driving; it’s about being fully engaged, feeling the road, and taking joy in the drive.”

The Abarth 500, 595, and 695 aren’t just cars; they’re a throwback to when driving was fun, a reminder of why we fell in love with cars in the first place.

What do you think?

I confess to running Yokohama Geolandar X-MT G005‘s at the time of writing, and although a little noisy have proven pretty decent off-road and on-road performance is really good too.

Let’s take a look at what I consider the best mud terrain tyres for Australian conditions, whatever your budget.

Stuff to consider when buying mud terrain tyres

If you’re struggling to choose a set of muddies there are five key factors to help you decide:

• Dry performance
• Wet performance
• Durability
• Noise and comfort
• And the old chestnut – Price.

Noise is probably your least concern, but if you spend most of your time on-road you’ll find some muddies are much quieter than others.

Wet or dry performance will depend on how much wet sticky mud you want to get yourself into. If you use your 4X4 a lot on the road then dry performance muddies will give you better practicality, fuel economy, and less road noise. Wet muddies will get you anywhere you want to go.

Durability is much better on wet performance muddies. They’re built to be seriously rugged with reinforced sidewalls, and this makes them much more resistant to punctures or damage from hard terrain.

When it comes to budget you’ll find a huge difference in price. In Australia we have the big brands like BFGoodrich and General Tire, more affordable yet still decent Japanese brands like Toyo and Yokohama, and also true blue Aussie brands like Monsta.

Where to get the best prices on mud terrain tyres in Australia?

If you’ve read my other articles you’ll know I’m a big fan of Tyroola, and I recently wrote how I saved $352 for a set of tyres for my Civic daily.

Tyroola are an online Aussie tyre retailer, and buying a set of tyres is as easy as picking what you want and having them sent to a tyre fitter near you. You even get to choose the tyre fitter based on location, price, service, and reviews from other consumers. You can even have them hooked up on your own driveway.

In 2024 it’s a great way of buying tyres for the best possible price.

Best Mud Terrain Tyres in Australia, 2024

Below you will find our best rated muddies of 2024, categorised by Best Aussie, Best Premium, Best All-Rounder, Best for Comfort, and Best Budget.

Keep in mind the tyres listed below are the latest models in 2024. Want to save some money, opt for a previous model.

Best Aussie MT: Monsta Mud Warrior MT

Being an Australian brand has to be a plus. Who knows Aussie off-road conditions better than Australians?

Combine that with a badass name – Monsta Mud Warrior MT – and a really decent price, these have to be the best Aussie muddy on offer?

Reviews have been great for the Monsta brand in general, and when it comes to the Mud Warrior’s a quote which sums them up in true Aussie style is “They stick like shit to a blanket”. With 4.8/5 on ProductReview and shed loads of positive feedback amongst 4X4 communities, why would you not?

Our mate Danny did a lap of Australia on a set of Mud Warriors, and despite being “a tad noisy” got him through endless dirt, corrugation, sand, a few rivers, remote salt lake, and of course a tonne of mud. He got stuck once, but deflating the tyres a little more got him unstuck, and I’m sure down to his terrible skills rather than the muddies.

Aesthetically speaking, the Monsta Mud Warriors look really serious on a Defender or Land Cruiser, particularly wagons and troopys.

Best Premium MT: BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM3

For serious off-roaders it comes as no surprise a BFGoodrich muddy gets “Best Premium MT”.

Yes, they’re expensive, but BFGoodrich are known across the world to be absolutely best of the best for off-road. In 2024 the BFGoodrich muddy of choice is the Mud Terrain T/A KM3 which already comes with a stack of great consumer reviews.

Not only are these tyres durable and quieter than most brands of muddy, they will get you absolutely anywhere in Australia (other than across the Torres Strait).

If you have the money and want the best, hook up your rig with KM3s and be the envy of your mates. It’s as simple as that, and you won’t be disappointed.

Yes, I did consider General Tire Grabbers. Despite being a very notable muddy, my personal preference (and experience) has to be BFGoodrich.

Best All-Rounder: Yokohama Geolander X-MT Mud Terrain G005

My guess is you didn’t expect to see a Yokohama on a list of the best mud terrain tyres for Australian off-road conditions, but credit where credit is due the Japanese know their stuff when it comes to tyres.

The Geolandar X-MT G005 may leave your mates wondering how serious you are about mud. That is, until you rock up and tow them out a sticky situation.

I’ve been running these muddies on my Ute for several months, and they’re a very capable mud terrain tyre. You compromise on the brand name and street appeal, but you’ll save some bucks in the process.

If you want a really good mud terrain tyre but aren’t bothered and don’t want to pay the premium of BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM3s, then check out the price of these Yoko’s:

Best for Comfort: Toyo Open Country MT

Toyo, another Japanese brand, make some excellent tyres. Not only are they excellent, but they’re also affordable.

The Toyo Open Country MT will be a good choice for you if you spend most of the time on the road, but still want a capable weekend warrior. Open Country MTs aren’t as serious as the other brands above, but you’ll be thankful for having a car which still performs politely and relatively quietly on the road.

It’s not as if you’ll be compromising that much either. The thick sidewalls on these Toyo’s are super tough and sturdy, even at low pressure.

You may be surprised to learn Toyo tyres have the most loyal consumers, with around 90% saying they would buy the same brand again. It’s possible these tyres will clock over 100,000km on Aussie roads, so factor that in when you’re considering how reasonably they’re priced.

Best Budget MT: Lanvigator Catchfors MT

When your mates ask you what tyres you have, and you say “Lanvigator’s”, you’ll probably get some blank looks.

You’ll also have a fatter wallet, because the Lanvigator Catchfors MT are much cheaper than all other muddies above. They’re made in China, a country known more for cheap exports than quality exports, but don’t worry too much – the Catchfor MTs come with stacks of positive reviews from budget-mongers like yourself.

The Lanvigators aren’t the quietest by some margin, and they cope with dry mud better than wet mud, but it has to be said they’re priced brilliantly.

If you don’t want a set of tyres which cost more than your car, yet let you have fun in the mud without too much stress, then check out the Lanvigator Catchfors MT.

A great muddy on a budget.

Wet mud performance vs dry mud performance

You may wonder why some MT tyres are better in wet mud and others in dry mud. Not all muddies are designed for the same purpose – other than mud, right?

There are design considerations which affect how the muddies perform in various situations, including tarmac.

Generally speaking, a wet performance mud terrain tyre will be tougher and able to disperse mud more easily. In wet mud, these tyres will effectively channel water and mud away from the tread, therefore maintaining better grip.

Dry performance mud terrain tyres (and all terrain ATs) compromise some of the wet grip for better all-round use. This includes better driving on-road, and usually less road noise. Some dry performance mud terrains will perform better in dry mud than those designed for wet mud.

It’s rare for a mud terrain tyre which trumps all aspect of mud use, but premium tyres like BFGoodrich and General Tire do a far better job in all situations, even offering you a pleasurable drive along the freeway home.

If you’re still uncertain whether you want a muddy for wet performance or dry performance, here are some thought provoking pros and cons of both:

Wet performance MT pros and cons

Dry performance MT pros and cons

Are narrow or wide tyres better in mud?

There’s a belief that narrow tyres can perform better in the mud, but this is incorrect.

Simply put, traction is all about surface area, and that means the larger the surface the better the traction. That means the seemingly ridiculous size of muddies you see on Australian 4X4s is all for purpose, not *just* to show off.

There are other factors of consideration, such as the ability of a mud terrain tyre to withstand pressure at low psi, and tread design to effectively disperse mud, but larger surface area is the reason muddies look so much more aggressive than all terrains.

Your local tyre shop will happily take your hard-earned Aussie bucks for a new tyre rather than offer you a quick and cheap repair. You can’t blame them really – they need to make money – so how do you know when your tyre can be repaired as a cheaper alternative?

This guide will cover various types of punctures, which can be repaired, and which can’t. We’ll compare the cost of tyre repair in Australia vs new tyres, and help you decide which option is best for you.

Lastly we’ll look at repairing a car tyre at home, plus all the finer details about car tyre repair.

Related: If you opt for new tyres, make sure you read how to save $$$s on new tyres in Australia.

How much does it cost to repair a car tyre in Australia?

In Australia the cost of car tyre repair ranges from $20 to $50 a tyre depending on the severity of the damage, type of repair needed, or who you pay to have the tyre repaired. If you live in a remote area you may understandably have to pay more.

If the tyre is fairly new then a tyre repair may be a better option than forking out $100 to $700 on a new tyre. More so if you need the opposite tyre replaced as well.

Whether you repair or replace a tyre may depend on the severity of damage, use of vehicle, or how much tread you have left on the tyre (see the “Tread Wear Indicators” section).

How do you know if your tyre has a puncture?

Although flat tyres are almost certainly a puncture (or faulty valve), smaller punctures can occur which are harder to notice.

It may not come as a surprise the #1 cause of punctured tyres in Australia are screws and nails. Are tradies working on your block?

Usually a nail will cause a slow puncture which may go a few weeks without noticing. Steering and suspension may begin to feel slightly different, or you may not notice until you park with your tyres at a certain angle and notice one is slightly ballooned at the bottom.

Here are common signs you have a puncture:

• Flat tyre.
• Steering pulls to one side or cornering feels less responsive.
• Suspension may feel softer than usual.
• The bottom of one tyre is bulged out more than the others.
• A thumping or thudding sound or vibration prior to a blow out. You may also experience a sense heavy wind blowing the car (similar sensation).
• Your neighbour shouts Hey mate, your tyre looks flat.

Common causes of tyre punctures

There are four main causes of tyre punctures which can cause either slow or rapid deflation of a tyre. The type of puncture will help you decide next steps:

• Sharp object penetrating tyre such as a screw or nail.
• Failure of a tyre’s valve stern, either when the tyre was replaced or due to dirt and debris in the valve (the reason you should always have tyre valve caps fitted).
• Breakage of the link between a tyre and rim, usually from a collision with a kerb, pot hole, or other external object.
• Excessively worn out tread causing explosive tyre failure or debris from the road tearing through the tyre

How is a tyre repaired?

We know our tyres are the #1 most important safety aspect of the car, so if you’re concerned about a tyre repair being safe then don’t worry. A tyre repairer will inform you if the tyre can be repaired safety, and assuming the puncture isn’t near the tyre wall then your tyre can be made as good as new.

A tyre repairer will adhere to Australian Tyre Repair Standards, and if this is not possible will inform you the tyre must be replaced.

There are two industry recommended repair methods. The first is a two-piece stem and patch repair, or a one-piece patch/stem combination repair.

The 3 primary considerations when repairing a puncture are:

• Evaluate the damage the object has caused.
• Reestablish an airtight seal of the tyre’s inner liner.
• Completely fill the path the object took through the tyre.

In general, the process of repairing a tyre is as follows:

• The tyre technician will locate the hole with soapy water or within a vessel of water.
• The hole is reamed to clean it, and the inner liner is prepped with a rasp.
• A liberal dose of rubber cement is applied to the area where the patch will rest, then a plug-patch is inserted.
• A plug fills the void in the tyre and provides some sealing.
• The patch is then pressed against the inner liner, completing the seal.
• The tyre is re-installed on the rim and rebalanced.

Typically, a mushroom-shaped patch and plug combination repair is the best method of repairing a punctured radial tyre.

Tyre patches alone and tyre plugs alone are not acceptable tyre repairs. The only approved tyre repair is the combination plug-patch style. In the workshop, the tyre is removed from the wheel and repaired in line with the Australian Tyre Repair Standard.

1. Take the tyre off and repair both sides

A tyre cannot be fully repaired from the outside. A temporary repair can be achieved with an external plug, but do not consider this a safe repair.

To comply with Australian Tyre Repair Standards it is necessary to remove and inspect the interior of the tyre for hidden damage, and seal the puncture both internally and externally.

2. Fill puncture path

A tyre repair must fill the path the object took through the tyre.

If this is not done properly, moisture can seep in from the opening of the puncture and reach the steel belts and/or casing cords. This exposure can cause rusting or deterioration and further compromise the structural integrity of the tyre.

3. Treat inner tube

To repair the inner liner it must be cleaned, buffed, cemented, patched and coated to restore its ability to retain air. This can only be done from inside the tyre and another reason why plug-only repair is unwise.

Can you repair a tyre at home?

Keeping in mind your tyres are one of the main safety aspects of your car, and a tyre fitter will perform the repair inline with Australian Tyre Repair Standards, it is possible to repair your tyre at home.

Dune offer a 4WD Premium Tyre Repair Kit (available from Anaconda). Although being marketed for 4WD enthusiasts, such as to repair a punctured tyre on an off-road jaunt, the kit is suitable for repairing tyres on a passenger car, 4WD, ATV, or truck.

Here’s a video to get you started:

How to decide whether to repair or replace a car tyre

There are general considerations which will help you decide whether to repair or replace a tyre. Your main two considerations will be the extent of damage, but also how much longevity is left in the tyre.

Important considerations (and when not to repair a tyre)

If the puncture is larger than 6mm you should never repair a tyre.

A sidewall puncture in your tyre is unrepairable. The sidewall and tyre shoulder area flex a great deal, which means tyre patches would quickly come loose. Instead, your tyre will need to be replaced.

Impacting a kerb or hitting large potholes can crack your rim where the tyre bead seals. If you’ve hit something and your tyre is now flat, you may require additional repairs above and beyond a tyre repair, such as rim repair or replacement.

If the tyre has been repaired previously then consider the structural integrity may be too compromised by an additional repair, especially if the puncture is in a similar area. The number of repairs may be limited by the tyre manufacturer’s recommendations and repair policy.

How used is the tyre?

Tread Wear Indicators give you a good idea of how much life is in the tyre, but you should also consider how damaged the tyre may be from road debris or collisions with hard objects.

How long did you drive on a punctured tyre, and how deflated was the tyre?

Driving on a flat tyre for any distance can severely damage the structural integrity of the tyre, making it more necessary to replace the tyre instead.

Age of the tyre is also a factor, or whether your vehicle has remained stationary for lengthy periods of time.

If you are in any doubt, seek the advice of a local tyre repairer.

Tread wear indicators

All road going tyres are legally required to have Tread Wear Indicators (TWI).

For vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) of 4.5 tonnes or less, a tyre must have a tread pattern around its circumference that is at least 1.5mm deep across the surface area of the tyre which comes in contact with the road. These are small raised platforms of rubber moulded into the main tread grooves.

You should be able to locate the TWI by following the indicators in the shoulder of the tyre:

• Look for the letters TWI. 
• A small triangular arrow head shape (see below).
• Sometimes by a company brand logo , (Goodyear ‘Wingfoot’ the ‘Michelin Man’, etc.)

Once you have found the tyre wear indicators you can determine if they are worth repairing or replacing. There is no point repairing a tyre if it will need to be replaced in the next 6 to 12 months regardless, and never repair a tyre without 1.6mm of tread as an absolute minimum.

Run flat tyres

If your car has run flat tyres it is unlikely these can be repaired. You can consult the tyre manufacturer for their repair policy.

Run flat tyres (otherwise known as mobility) tyres are becoming more popular as an original equipment manufacturer’s fitment to new cars, particularly for BMWs. This technology allows you to get home and to the store safely at a reduced speed and range without the need to change the tyre.

The speed restriction for run flat tyres is generally 80 km/h with a distance restriction to travel less than 80km on these tyres.

For advice on run flat and self sealing tyres it is best to ask your local tyre shop. Run flat tyre repairs would be conducted in accordance with the Australian Tyre standard and in line with product specific recommendations from the world class manufacturers.

Manufacturers policy on repaired tyres

The warranty of a tyre may or may not be compromised by a tyre repair. This will depend on the tyre manufacturer’s policy.

When it comes to speed ratings, some manufacturers allow this to be retained if the specified multi-step repair procedure is followed exactly, by a professional tyre repairer. However, because manufacturers have no control over the state of the puncture or the quality of the repair, they often consider the high speed capability of a tyre to be compromised.

Final thoughts on tyre repair

Ultimately the decision to repair or replace a tyre is up to you.

If a tyre is repaired professionally in conformance of the Australian Tyre Wear Standards there is no reason the tyre won’t offer you maximum longevity. However, replacing a punctured tyre will mitigate any risk you face from a poor repair or subsequent damage in the future.

If in doubt, seek the advice of a tyre repair professional or purchase a new tyre (or new set of tyres).

If you decide to replace tyres, read our guide on how you can save a great deal of money in doing so.

If you have any further thoughts or questions on tyre repair, get in touch or add a comment below.

Needless to say we often overpay on premium tyres designed for speeds up to 270km/h, and legally speaking you’ll never get anywhere near that on Australian roads, will you?

Although the words “budget” and “performance” aren’t the best paring of words, there are definitely great tyre options which will give you great performance on a much friendlier budget. Most of the time, given the price you’ll save, it’s a no brainer.

Let’s look into what I consider the best budget performance tyres in Australia, in 2024.

Note: Please note prices have been sourced from our preferred tyre retailer Tyroola.

Budget performance tyre considerations

Before investing in any set of tyres it’s worth considering a few things which will help you choose the right tyres for you. When it comes to Australian road conditions (assuming you won’t be taking your performance car on endless corrugated dirt), most tyres will have very good grip, and almost all will have a suitable speed rating.

Let’s cover some basic considerations before buying a set of budget performance tyres:

What’s your budget?

Lot’s of Aussies drive performance cars, but when it comes to buying tyres they don’t have the funds to buy premium Pirellis.

And that’s fine.

There’s a huge difference in price of performance tyres, and you have to wonder how much you’re paying for the name. Did you know the state-of-the-art premium tyre technologies won’t affect your butt dyno whatsoever, and it’s not as if your Dad ran those tyres when he ragged his V8 Commodore around Sydders.

Did you know most premium tyre brands sell perfectly decent tyres for much less than their flagship brands, and most are great for on-road performance? They just aren’t rated for dragstrip speeds, that’s all.

Write down on paper how much you can afford for your budget premium tyres, and we’ll help you find something suitable.

What’s your driving style?

Do you rag your car?

Genuine question, and this will affect how “budget” you want to go. Generally speaking, the cheaper the tyre, the less grip it may offer. You can argue cheaper tyres offer less durability, but this isn’t always the case.

Keep in mind tyres are one of the main safety aspects of your car. More so for a performance car. So if you drive aggressively and push tyres to the limit, it may be worth spending a bit more money or blowing your budget.

What type of driving do you do normally?

If you drive a lot on the freeway then the pressure is off significantly when buying tyres.

Always consider what you use your car for the most. Write down percentages of use on paper (such as 80% freeway, 15% around town, 5% hooning around Coles car park at 3am) – this will help guide you towards a set of tyres which meet both your budget, and your performance needs.

Did you know the average Porsche driver will stay within speed limits much more than the average Holden driver? There’s irony in that, but it means Porsche drivers unnecessarily overspend more on performance tyres than Holden drivers!

Are weather or regional conditions a factor?

Most of the time in Australia weather and climate isn’t an issue, unless you live in Melbourne where I know you get arctic weather conditions most of the year.

Do you need your tyres to cater for regional conditions, such as dirt roads or snowy mountain conditions? This may affect the tyres you buy, but you knew that already, didn’t you?

With weather conditions I really just wanted to make a cheap joke about Melbourne weather.

Right, let’s look at some budget performance tyre options…

Best in Budget Performance: Pirelli Dragon Sport

The Pirelli Dragon Sport is a great performance tyre from a brand you know to be premium. It’s a tyre which although isn’t the cheapest is still very affordable given the brand name.

The Dragon Sport is a very popular choice in Australia for sports and performance cars, with lots of positive feedback from genuine Aussies. It’s a great sweet spot between performance and affordability.

As a summer tyre the Dragon Sport work very well in the dry, and not too bad in the wet either. Even Melbournites have had great experiences with the tyre, both along wet tramlines and on spirited Great Alpine drives.

Although some have found these tyres slightly more noisy than boring tyres, it has to be said the tyre wear and longevity is very good. Yes, you can buy a more budget tyre, but will it last as long as Pirelli Dragon Sport? Probably not.

Best for Smaller Performance Cars: Toyo Proxes T1 Sport

I have a lot of respect for the Toyo Proxes T1 Sports, and a lot of experience having run them on my Honda CRX for many years before going all ridiculous with R888Rs (which are badass).

A lot can be said for most Japanese tyre brands, and believe it or not the Toyo Tire Corporation emerged right after WW2. Decades of Toyo tyres sold worldwide for many applications has proven quality and durability, and also good performance with the Proxes T1 Sport. You can probably throw in “innovation” as well, and Toyo tyres are often respected by car enthusiasts.

I’m always impressed by the comparative performance of Toyo Proxes T1 Sport, and I feel you will too considering these are well within the “budget performance” bracket.

Ultimate Budget: Maxtrek Maximus M1

If you’ve found the first two budget performance recommendations above your budget, then let’s bring things back down to bargain.

You may find this a bit of a curve ball, but Maxtrek Maximus M1 tyres hold their own in the dry. Surprisingly so. What they fall short on is wet weather grip, but that’s less of a concern in most parts of Australia for most of the year.

If you’re happy to relax on wet days, the Maximus M1 tyres are very affordable compared to the other performance tyres above and below. The quality isn’t on par with the other recommendations, but at such a good price you’ll probably feel happier ragging them around the streets, and you’ll save enough money to buy yourself a new subwoofer.

But perhaps not for your Ferrari, right?

Best Budget Performance Allrounder: Goodyear Eagle F1 Directional 5

Goodyear are one of the biggest tyre manufacturers worldwide, not to mention the iconic blimps. Even those weird looking vehicles they took to the moon on the Apollo missions were fitted with Goodyear tyres. I bet you didn’t know that?

When it comes to budget, Goodyear have always been a solid and reliable choice. When it comes to performance tyres on a budget I’ve selected the Goodyear Eagle F1 Directional 5s. As a personal preference I would favour the slightly more expensive F1 Asymmetrics for Australian road use, but it has to be said the Directional’s are better allrounder when you throw in wet weather, and a great price too.

I’ve noticed Goodyear Eagle F1s aren’t as readily available in Australia in 2024, but shop around and you’ll find some. Alternatively opt for the Asymmetrics which are really decent summer performance tyres.

So, if you want a tyre with “F1” in the name, check out the Eagle F1s:

What budget performance tyres do you run, and why?

I’ve been driving enthusiastically and racing cars for four decades now, but I’m more than happy for other expert opinions, feedback, reviews, and experiences.

What tyres do you run and why? How do you find them for budget, and for performance?

Let me know in the comments!

Then again, those who buy a new car from a dealer will pay hefty amounts of hard-earned cash. When you know what to look for when buying a second hand car, it’s likely you’ll buy something very reliable for far less money.

So without too much ado, here’s a Second Hand Car Buying Checklist for you to print out and take with you on your car buying adventure:

Physical and Functional Checks

First, let’s start with physical and functional checks, basic things in the car inspection checklist.

Engine

The last thing you want when buying a second hand car is a dodgy engine. For most cars a broken engine equals scrap heap heaven and zero return on your investment.

Check the engine oil. If it’s creamy or has an extra brown color, it is probably mixed with coolant. Not a good sign, and you’re looking at future repairs. Check the engine oil before and after the test drive to check the sludge and identify the faulty parts in an engine.

The engine shouldn’t make unusual noises during the test drive. If it is, leave the car, because these noises will turn into bigger problems.

Accident Patterns, Rust, and Signs of Abuse

Rust on body parts gets worse quickly and weakens the car. Unless you want to fork out $$$s on bodywork repairs it’s best to avoid buying a second hand car with rusty body parts. This includes rusty panels, pillars, boots, and engine bay brackets and radiator support.

Moreover, if the car shows signs of collision, dents, or signs of abuse, it means the current owner hasn’t been driving it well, or possibly hooning it around town. Some Hondas and Toyotas can take such abuse, but you should still consider it a red flag.

Fluid Leakage

Fluid leakages aren’t good news. Take a good look in the engine bay, under the engine bay, and around the underneath of the car. Any signs of leaky oil around the engine block could be an expensive repair, especially if the engine or gearbox needs to be removed to fix even the smallest leak.

If you find a leak, ask the owner about it and judge their response. Do due diligence before buying a car with any kind of fluid leak.

Smoke and Steam from the Exhaust

In cold winter months (so I’m talking about Melbourne), you may find some steam coming from the exhaust. This doesn’t mean there’s an issue with the car (well, unless it’s an electric car!)

However, smoke coming from the exhaust is something to worry about. When the car is started or driven away, ideally you want a friend standing behind the car (not too close) to keep an eye out for smoke.

If there is smoke, it will be white, blue, or black. This is what it may mean:

• White smoke – This means the engine coolant is leaking into the engine. It’s a red flag, so walk away.
• Blue smoke – This means the engine oil is burning in the combustion chamber. Not only can this be an expensive fix, it can also be dangerous. Another red flag, so walk away.
• Black smoke – This is a sign the car is burning too much fuel. This should be a cheaper fix, or one you don’t care about (What? You don’t care about Planet A!?). Whether you buy a car emitting black smoke may depend on how cheap it is, or how much you want to upset cyclists.

Paint Job

Sometimes it’s hard to notice when a paint job is original or a repair. Have a good look around the car from different angles, squatting down if necessary. Can you see any areas of paint which differ from the rest of the car?

Paint repairs may be a slightly different shade or texture, and suggest either an accident or rust repair.

Particularly look around the bumpers, doors, and wheel arches (which can often rust).

As it’s difficult to spot paint repairs with the naked eye, you may want to call a friend who’s better at this stuff (or pay your local car mechanic a slab of VB).

Documents

Most second hand car buyers have already convinced themselves they’re buying the car by the time it gets to viewing documents. Who likes documents, right?

However, there are some important checks you must do before you hand over a wad of cash.

Title

Always make sure you’re buying the car from the legal owner.

If there’s some reason the owner isn’t selling the car, such as “My mate’s working up north, init”, and “needs the cash urgent, like”, then it’s probably best to walk away.

Always check the title belongs to the owner and not a financing company. If the car is financed, i.e. the loan hasn’t been paid off yet, then consider that a big red flag. Don’t take the owner’s word if he (or she) says the loan has been paid off.

Bills of Sale

Bill(s) of sale refers to the documents made when the car was last sold to the current seller. It should include details about the car and the previous owner, including make & model, vehicle identification number (VIN), names and contacts of the previous owner, date of sale, and price.

Make sure you check the VIN matches the stamp on the car. This is often under the engine bay, but in some vehicles it can be tucked away in an obscure place. A quick Google search would give you the answer, so it’s worth knowing before you view the second hand car.

Rebuilt and salvage titles

Rebuilt means the car has been in an accident. You can assume it was totaled, then rebuilt. If you’re buying a classic or unusual car you may overlook this if you are assured the rebuild was done professionally, but keep in mind these cars should have a much lower price than non-rebuilt cars.

Salvage titles refer to the insurance-declared titles. This means the car was in an accident and the insurance company decided it was cheaper to pay out the original value than pay for the repairs. Sometimes these cars are fully repaired by a professional and resold into circulation, especially with classic and unusual vehicles. To give an example, I’m a keen enthusiast of 1980s/1990s Honda Civic CRXs, a car often undervalued by an insurance company due to age, but still loved by many enthusiasts.

Test Drive

Whatever problems you might not detect in the first look and physical test, you may pick up in the test drive.

Needless to say, you should always test drive a second hand car before you buy it. If there is any reason why the owner refuses to let you drive it, other than checking your ID and insurance, or taking a deposit, then consider this multiple red flags waving in front of your eyeballs.

The most important things to tune in to on a test drive are steering and suspension. Does the car operate and feel like it should?

A test drive will especially tell you about steering and suspension; how well the car operates and follows the driver’s commands.

What to check for when test driving a second hand car

• Acceleration – Check for smooth acceleration without hesitation or jerking.
• Braking – Are the brakes even and responsive? Are there any unusual noises while braking, such as scraping?
• Steering – Does the steering feel responsive? Does the car pull to one side? Does the car pull to one side while braking?
• Suspension – Is the car smooth over bumps? Does the suspension bounce excessively, or make any knocking noises?
• Handling -Is the car smooth around corners? Is there any instability or unusual vibrations?
• Transmission – Are gear shifts smooth and responsive? Does an auto gearbox clunk, or is a manual gearbox smooth and easy to change in every gear?
• Noise – Listen for unusual engine, transmission, or suspension noises. Make sure the stereo is off while driving, and drive a little while with the windows open to listen for exterior noises.
• Dashboard – When starting the car, does the engine light display momentarily before turning off? If not, it may mean the bulb has been removed to hide an engine fault. Make sure all gauges and warning lights read correctly.
• HVAC – When buying a car in the Aussie summer you should still check heating, and in winter you should still check aircon. Make sure ventilation works as expected, because you don’t want to have sweaty pits when the sun comes out.
• Cruise Control – If a second hand car has cruise control, then make sure it works correctly. Even if cruise control isn’t something you particularly care about, it’s definitely a bargaining chip if it doesn’t work.

Final Checks

This is where the Second Hand Car Buying Checklist gets a little more in-depth.

OBD Codes

For decades most cars have had a rudimentary computer (or “ECU”) to control and monitor the many functions of a car. When a second hand car “throws a fault”, this can be recorded on the computer. With a tool known as an OBD Scanner (which you can easily buy), you can check the on-board diagnostic codes.

On-board diagnostic codes are of two kinds: permanent and historic. Attaching the scanner to the car’s computer will reveal OBD codes. The permanent code indicates a serious problem with the car, so a major red flag.

In some older cars you may not need an OBD Scanner, instead a light on the ECU will flash an error code (a bit like morse code) when you turn the ignition key.

It’s unlikely, but it’s possible to hide faulty codes with old data so the scanner cannot detect them. If in doubt you should get an expert (or your local car mechanic) to make sure the system has been messed with.

This Second Hand Car Buying Checklist does not cover everything. There are many components in all cars, and many issues which occur. When buying a second hand car you should always assume there will be aspects of ongoing maintenance, but hopefully armed with this checklist you’ll be able to avoid the major issues and pitfalls of buying a second hand car!

So, now you’ve viewed the car and checked off all the above, it’s time to make a decision! Good luck!

If you want to import a car from Japan, such as from the Japanese car auctions, your easiest option is to enlist one of the many brokers. Yes, you pay a fee, but you also take out the uncertainty of the procedure.

A good import broker will discuss with you what type of car you want – make, model, colour, spec, manual/auto/tiptronic, turbo, non-turbo, glass roof siR (Honda CRX reference), and so forth.

They’ll also ask you what grade of car you want, which is basically the Japanese auction rating based on interior and exterior condition (more on this later).

I highly recommend going through the process of importing a car from Japan. There’s nothing quite like waiting for that ship to come in with your new ride on it.

Let’s take a look at the ins and outs of importing a car from Japan into Australia:

Popular cars imported from Japan into Australia

You probably have a type of car in mind already, but below are some of the most common cars imported from Australia according to brokers:

1. Nissan Skyline (e.g., R32, R33, R34)
2. Nissan Silvia (e.g., S13, S14, S15)
3. Nissan GT-R (e.g., R32, R33, R34, R35)
4. Honda Integra Type R (DC2, DC5)
5. Honda NSX
6. Toyota Supra (e.g., JZA80)
7. Mazda RX-7 (e.g., FD3S)
8. Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution (e.g., Evo IV, Evo V, Evo VI)
9. Subaru Impreza WRX STI (e.g., GC8, GD, GR)
10. Toyota Chaser
11. Toyota Soarer (Lexus SC300/400)
12. Mitsubishi Delica Space Gear
13. Suzuki Cappuccino
14. Daihatsu Copen
15. Mazda MX-5 (Eunos Roadster)
16. Toyota Alphard and Vellfire (badass vans)

Why import a car from Japan?

There’s nothing quite like a bullet point list, so here’s some convincing reasons to import a car from Japan.

• Unique models – Japan specs are different. They save the best from themselves, and mass export the regular stuff for regular Aussies. If you do your research you’ll be able to pick a spec which your mates will truly be in awe of.
• High quality vehicles – You probably know already how well built Japanese cars are. Take the Toyota Land Cruiser for example, one of the most loved vehicles for harsh Aussie conditions. I ragged my Land Cruiser around Australia, through endless dirt, dunes, beaches, rivers, and a pretty dubious salt lake. Absolutely bullet proof.
• Lower prices – The auction cost plus shipping cost is usually lower than what you would pay for a similar model in Australia. There are economic reasons for this, and the strict “Shaken” test in Japan makes cars more costly to maintain the older they get. These tests start 3 years from first registration, then every 2 years, and effectively encourage the Japanese to buy newer cars. The benefit of that, for us, is steeper depreciation of immaculately maintained slightly ageing cars.
• Variety – Unique JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) models are what appeals to us the most, and there’s some fantastic JDM sports cars. Then you have Japanese “Kei” cars – small enough to park in your wardrobe, but big enough to make you feel like Godzilla on wheels.
• Potential for investment – I bet you’ve never thought of buying a Japanese car for investment, but believe me these cars can explode in value when they reach a certain age. You’ll need to buy the right spec, preferably something unique, iconic, or limited edition and sit on it for however many years. Put it this way, I bought my first Honda CRX for $500. That same car today, in 2024, would likely reach $20,000.
• Customisation potential – Put your Fords and Holdens aside, because there’s nothing quite like JDM car enthusiasts when it comes to customisation potential. Not only will you find an incredible community of enthusiasts for whatever JDM car you choose, you’ll find all manner of modification parts and knowledge on how to turn that car into whatever level of beast you may want.
• Low mileage – Have you looked in dismay on Autotrader at all the high km cars for “You’re Dreaming” money? You won’t find the same on Japanese car auctions. Plenty of low-mileage cars to be had, in fantastic condition, for less money than your neighbour will pay for a lower spec car.

It’s worth covering the drawbacks as well, so let’s skirt over them here. I thought about small print, because I know you don’t really care about this stuff, but here you go if you’re boring:

Import costs can be high if you don’t do enough research and choose a cowboy importer. Compliance with Australian regulations can be a pain – I had to pay for a baby seat ISOFIX anchor point for a sports coupe rear seat which wasn’t even big enough to fit a baby seat. Then I had to strip off all the window tint because it was too cool for Aussie regs. Insurance companies may not recognise your car, or make you pay more because of it (check with insurance companies before importing). Parts can be harder to get, but if you do due diligence you’ll find many JDM cars share the same parts as Australian domestic Japanese cars.

Consider all the above minor cons. Having owned numerous JDM cars over my life I can only recall minor problems. Most of the time they weren’t my problems, rather my mechanic ordering the wrong part and causing a slight delay.

The import procedure – rules and regulations

It may come as no surprise Australia has some of the strictest laws prohibiting the import of most vehicles. I suggested using an import broker, right?

The basic law states a vehicle may only be imported if it has never been sold locally in full volume. This applies to vehicles that are essentially the same vehicle with different badging (such as Ford Laser or Mazda 323).

A vehicle is considered to be a different model if it varies substantially in design to a local car. The Nissan 300ZX is a great example as it was only available in Australia as a 2+2 seater version. That means we can import the Jap spec 2 seater Nissan 300ZX. Different engine type or size does not classify a car as a different model, so be wary of that.

Once a vehicle is deemed to be a different model it must pass the S.E.V.S. criteria in order to be allowed for import.

Specialist & Enthusiast Vehicle Scheme (S.E.V.S.)

All vehicles are judged using the S.E.V.S. ruling system. There is no easy way to explain this quickly but basically vehicles must meet two out of the following 4 criteria:

• Be significantly different in appearance to vehicles sold new in Australia
• Have unusual design features to anything sold new locally
• Performance greater than 105kw/ton, or unusually good economy
• Be featured in specialist publications (High Performance Imports, Zoom, etc.)

What if a car does not meet S.E.V.S. criteria?

Obviously not all cars would pass these criteria. Most of the popular JDM cars would have been judged already, but if there’s a vehicle that you think would be eligible for import that is not listed, it’s worth getting an import specialist to lodge an application for you.

Import approval

Just because the vehicle type has been approved for importing, it doesn’t mean you can just buy one and ship it to Australia.

Any vehicle that comes into Australia needs an import permit issued by DOTARS in Canberra. Under the current laws, the import approval for SEVS cars must be lodged by the compliance workshop (RAWS). An import broker will help you with this part of the process if necessary.

Personal Imports – Circumventing import regulations!

Did you know you can import any car as a personal import if you have owned and used it for at least 12 months overseas first?

This might be a good incentive to go and live in Japan for a year, or even the UK or America where JDM imports are very common.

You’ll still have to apply for an import approval for a personal import, but it’s an easier process if these circumstances apply to you. You will need to provide registration and insurance paperwork to prove ownership history and use of the vehicle.

I actually did this myself – I stayed in the UK for a year where I bought a top spec JDM Honda CRX in black, with VTEC, and a rare as rocking horse poo glass roof. When I shipped the car to Australia it was one of only a few in the country. Sadly there came a time when I had to sell it, but I made a great profit.

Importing 1988 and older cars

Any vehicle built in 1988 or older is allowed for import into Australia without restriction, however as with any other vehicle you will need to get an import approval from DOTARS in Canberra.

These older cars don’t need to go through the normal SEVS compliance process, but you will need to do some basic modifications and get an engineers report proving that the car meets the relevant ADR’s for the year of manufacture. The work necessary for this will vary between different cars and also which state of Australia you live in, but generally speaking allow up to $1500 for compliance work on most popular 1988 models.

CAR VX report – an essential report before you buy a Japanese JDM car

Before we cover how the Japanese auction grade sheets work, here’s an important tip – if you can get the chassis number of a JDM car, you can pay a few bucks for a very thorough history report.

A CAR VX report will give you information on factory recalls, accidents & repairs, previous auction gradings (many cars go through various auctions before being exported), and a very good idea of mileage over the life of the car to date.

If you have a JDM car already, and like most grey imports were given very little history of the car when you purchased it, a CAR VX report is a fantastic investment, and will add value if you wish to sell the car.

CAR VX can be found here – https://carvx.jp/

Japanese Auction Grades – How they work

Most auctions (and some stock dealers) have an auction grading system which uses numbers and letters to give you a very thorough view of what condition a vehicle is in.

It can be hard for us Aussies to understand the Japanese scrawls on an auction inspection sheet, but not impossible. The most prominent indicator of a car auction grade is a letter and a number, such as “4” and “B”, which gives you a great overall indicator of the condition of a car.

An example Japanese Car Auction grade sheet

Auction sheets do vary, but most will be very similar to the sample grade sheet below which shows a basic annotation in red to help you familiarise yourself with the various aspects.

The auction sheet, once translated, will help you understand if there is a full service history and car documentation, the condition of the exterior and Interior, leather seats, and so forth. 

Auction sheet: Options

If you’re looking for a car with factory options, then the below acronyms should help you identify them on the auction sheet:

• AC-Air conditioner
• SR-Sun roof
• AW -Alloy Wheels
• PS – Power steering
• PW – Electric window
• FA – Automatic gearbox
• F5 – 5Speed gearbox
• F6 – 6 Speed gearbox

Auction sheet: Car Diagram & Overall Grade

All inspection sheets will have a diagram of the car’s body. There will be a lot of different marks inspectors will place over this diagram to describe what they see.

The following is the most common marking scheme:

For the record, when I first imported a JDM car circa 2010 I struggled to find the variety of A1s and B1s on the auction sheet. It was a grade 4B van, and despite being around 10 years old when I imported it, was almost immaculate.

As of 2024, my most recent import – a Toyota Vellfire – was a little rough around the edges despite also being a 4B grade. It was clear the interior had sun damage, with a melted dash, faded interior plastics, and tatty gear knob. From discussions with various importers it seems the Japanese auction grading system isn’t as stringent as it once was, but still a very good guide.

Auction sheet: Dents and Scratches

Usually you’ll find a combination of letters and numbers dotted around the image of the car.

This is what they mean:

A1: Scratch or crack, 2- 3cm
A2: Scratch or crack, less than 10cm
A3: Scratch or crack, more than 20cm

U or B1: Dent of “a bean “size
U or B2: Dent, less than 10cm
U or B3: Dent, more than 20cm

W1: Repaint in as new condition
W2: Repair & repaint in good condition
W3: Repair but the gloss of surface is bad

However, if you’re stuck out bush, off-road, or have no other options, below you’ll find possible ways to get your car off the ground to repair or replace your tyre:

Hack #1: Re-inflate the tyre

If you have an air compressor (even a manual foot pump) your safest option is to re-inflate the tyre and drive slowly to a place where you can call for assistance or seek help. The type of puncture will affect how successful this is, and if you have a way of locating and plugging the puncture then this can be used to get you to safety.

Monitor the tyre pressure regularly and re-inflate if necessary. The more you drive on a deflated tyre the more damage you will do to it’s structural integrity.

Related: Tyre repair.

Hack #2: Use the terrain or kerb

If you’re on soft ground your easiest option is to support the jack point or suitable location underneath the car with a concrete block, sturdy rock, or anything you can find in the environment which will adequately support the corner weight of your car. Be vary careful with what you use.

Dig away the soft ground under the punctured tyre until you have enough clearance to remove it.

In an urban area you may be able to achieve the same result using a kerb or elevation, or maneuver your car so the punctured tyre is over mud or grass.

Depending on your vehicle, and as a last resort, part deflating the tyre on the opposite corner diagonally may give you a little more clearance. For example, if your front left tyre is punctured, you can part deflate the rear right tyre. You would need an air compressor or foot pump to re-inflate the tyre.

Hack #3: Use leverage

It may be a hard ask, but if you can locate a long wooden post or straight and sturdy tree limb, you may be able to use this to lift the corner of your car. The longer it is, the better leverage you should have.

Note: This will be a two man job minimum, with safety concerns which you should strongly consider.

One of you will need to lift the car using the lever. You may need to use a fulcrum to get better leverage – a fulcrum is the pivot point, such as on a see saw, which helps lift the heavy object (car) on the other end of the lever. A suitable rock or possibly your spare tyre (last resort) can be used as a fulcrum.

If you can momentarily lift or bounce the car, the other person can slide a suitable object under the jack point to lift the car. Once propped and secure with enough clearance, you will be able to remove and repair/replace the tyre or wheel.

Hack #4: Rocking technique

You may have realised the further you get down this list the less chance of success.

However, if you’re stuck in a situation where you have no other means of leverage, it may be possible to rock the car off the ground. You will need a great deal of man power, more so with a heavy vehicle.

The rocking technique requires you to turn the steering wheel fully in the direction of the flat tyre. You (and your mates) will need to push and pull the car sideways to lift the flat tyre off the ground.

Whatever method you choose, safety should be your top priority. None of the methods listed above should be considered safe, and should only be attempted as a last resort or matter of emergency.

If you can call for assistance, call for assistance.

Imagine the posh meals and champagne you could dine on for that money if you stayed at home?

Thankfully car hire in Tasmania has dropped back to more realistic levels. This should give you hope of touring the beautiful island state in the best way possible – on wheels. Having done so myself, I highly recommend the adventure.

As of 2024, a hire car from Hertz or AVIS may still set up back around $250/day, but using the tips below you can hire a car for as little as 70 bucks a day – cheaper than the cost of car hire in Melbourne!

How much is car hire in Tasmania?

At the time of writing (February 2024), the cheapest car available to hire in Tasmania for the first week of March is a Kia Picanto from East Coast Car Rentals. This would set you back $72.25 per day, but is such a small car suitable for touring Tasmania?

In comparison, the cheapest car hire we found in Melbourne for the same week was $112.01/day – Over 50% more expensive.

If you would prefer to hire a car from a larger company such as Hertz, your cheapest option is much more – $254.11 per day. Considering the price difference, this is also for a small economy car, a Suzuki Swift, Hyundai Accent, Kia Rio, or Toyota Yaris.

Thankfully, a more practical intermediate car like a Toyota Corolla or Mitsubishi ASX won’t cost you much more per day at either a major car rental company or a smaller one. Expect to pay $10 to $20 more per day for a more practical car, or even an SUV.

As a curve ball, a Suzuki Jimny or similar would set you back $297.49 per day with Thrifty. That’s not much more than the economy cars available at Hertz or AVIS, and despite being a small car, is also a fun (and economical) way to tour Tasmania.

All quotes are from car rental price compare website VroomVroomVroom.com.au.

Why should you pay the price to hire a car in Tasmania?

When Australians want a cheap holiday, they go to Bali. No car required.

Tasmania is not that kind of holiday. It’s a life experience, not a holiday.

As the 26th-largest island in the world, covering around 68,401 square kilometers (26,410 square miles), Tasmania is still the smallest state in Australia in terms of land and population.

What that means for you, on your driving holiday, is a whole range of mouth-watering benefits:

• Diverse landscapes – Tasmania offers mountains, forests, beaches, and historical sites. Whatever your outdoor preferences, Tasmania has it all, and with a hire car you can see all of it (if time permits).
• Scenic drives – I’m sure you love driving, and Tasmania is renowned for its picturesque drives. Take the Great Eastern Drive or the drive to Cradle Mountain, both routes offer breathtaking views and the opportunity to explore charming towns along the way. Travelling Tasmania by car is breathtaking wherever you go.
• Unique wildlife – You’ve heard of the Tasmanian Devil haven’t you? You’ll only find these adorable beasts on Tasmania. You’ll also find the Eastern Quoll, a ferret-like marsupial adorned with cute white spots about the size of a cat, as well as the Red-Bellied Pademelon, resembling a wallaby or kangaroo but even more cuddly. And that’s not all.
• Heritage and history – Tasmania has a rich history. You have the option of visiting convict sites (great places to reflect on life!), colonial architecture, and indigenous cultural heritage. Exploring the historical aspects of Tasmania will give you a true insight of the island’s history, and best done by hire car.
• Island atmosphere – The Australian equivalent of the UK’s Isle of Wight, Tasmania has the distinct island atmosphere and more relaxed pace of life. You won’t find the pleated suits of Sydney or the caffeine-fueled busyness of Melbourne. In Tasmania people like to relax, which is what you want on your tranquil and laid-back driving holiday!
• Outdoor activities – Okay, I know I said “relaxed”, but your trip to Tasmania doesn’t have to be too relaxed. You can hike, kayak, cycle, or go off on wildlife watching jaunts. Whatever you like to do, in Tasmania it’s best done by car, with your luggage – or even your bed – in the boot.

How can you get cheap car hire in Tasmania?

If you were originally put off by how expensive car hire can be in Tasmania, but re-convinced by the previous section on why Tasmania is an absolute must life experience, then let’s look at how to get the cheapest car hire possible in Tasmania.

Getting the best prices on car hire in Tasmania is mostly a combination of planning, timing, and comparison shopping.

Here are quick-fire tips to make sure you get the best price on car hire in Tasmania, and have the best adventure possible:

1. Book in advance – This is your best way to lock in a lower rate. Car hire prices tend to increase as the pickup date approaches.
2. Compare prices – Use an online car rental comparison website such as VroomVroomVroom (or an app) to compare prices from various rental companies. You will find a vast difference in prices based on your dates of travel.
3. Check local prices – It’s understandable some people prefer global car hire companies such as Hertz and AVIS, but it’s worth checking prices of local and regional car rental companies as well. Sometimes these companies offer the most competitive rates. In the example earlier you saw a difference of $72.25 versus $254.11 per day for a small car.
4. Flexible dates and times – Given car hire in Tasmania can be expensive, it may be worth booking your holiday around car hire dates and prices rather than planning your dates first and then sucking up the price of car hire. Quite often a little bit of flexibility in your travel dates can save you hundreds of dollars.
5. Off-airport car hire companies – As convenient as it is to hop off the plane and into a hire car, this is often your most expensive option. Off-airport car hire companies are usually much more competitive on price, and even when you factor in transportation costs between the airport and car hire company, you can still save a great deal of money.
6. Rent a smaller car – Smaller cars are cheaper on fuel and cost less per day. They may not get you around Tasmania in as much comfort, but they will still get you around Tasmania. A larger car may offer more luxury, but if you’re on a budget this can be a trade off for affordability.
7. Decline optional extras – Additional insurance coverage racks up costs, and you may even be covered by your own car insurance or credit card. Prepaid fuel options may be convenient, but fuel at the pump will be much cheaper. Always refuel before returning the car.
8. Does your travel insurance cover car hire excess – If you have comprehensive travel insurance it is worth checking if it covers your car hire excess as well. Usually it’s cheaper to be covered by comprehensive travel insurance than it is to pay an additional premium from a car hire company. We will cover this topic in more detail below.
9. Use discounts, coupons, or membership discounts – Check car rental company websites or third-party travel websites for discounts an coupons. Sometimes this can be painful, but may also get you a better deal. Check if a car hire company has any memberships or affiliations (such as frequent flyer programs) which offer discounts on car rentals. Some credit cards also offer rental car insurance and discounts, so check those too.

With the above tips you should be able to find more affordable car hire in Tasmania, but there are two final points we must cover:

Review Rental Terms

Carefully review the terms and conditions, including insurance options and fuel policies. Sometimes cheap deals may not be as cheap as you think once you factor in additional fees.

Always Read Reviews

Always make sure you read reviews of a car rental company you are considering. Make sure they have a good reputation for service and vehicle quality.

Additionally, always ask for a confirmation of total cost, including any potential additional fees, before making a reservation.

What causes car hire in Tasmania to be expensive?

If car hire in Tasmania wasn’t expensive before, the COVID pandemic caused two things to happen – (1) an increase in mainland Australians opting to holiday in Tasmania rather than other countries, and (2) car rental companies in Tasmania reducing their fleet during the pandemic.

Although both of the above factors caused car hire prices to reach eye-watering levels after the pandemic, as of 2024 normality has almost returned.

Being an island, combined with the cost of car transport across the Bass Straight, makes car hire a far more convenient option. Transporting a car from Geelong to Tasmania on the Spirit of Tasmania will cost from $179 each way, which may be viable if you live near Melbourne, but from further afield you must also factor in fuel costs.

Most tourists to Tasmania therefore prefer to fly to Tasmania and hire a car for the duration rather than transport their own car. What that means for all tourists, whether from mainland Australia or further afield, is strong demand and high car hire prices.

Did you know in Australia your car rental comes with 3rd party insurance?

In Australia a car must have rego, payable annually by the car hire company. This covers 3rd party insurance and the excess includes 3rd party property.

Does travel insurance cover car hire excess?

We’re often put off by the amount of small print in a car hire contract, only made worse after a long flight and eagerness to embark on our holiday while waiting at the car hire counter.

Being covered by our travel insurance policy can alleviate some of our stress, so it is worth knowing what your travel insurance policy covers or taking out a policy which covers car hire excess.

A car hire company may charge $35/day on top of the rental fee for “premium” insurance, and it is in their best interest to sell it to you.

If you’re uneasy about driving in Tasmania, or damaging a hire car, then you may well be tempted into paying such an excess. However, $35/day over a two week trip is almost $500. For that money you can get a far more comprehensive travel insurance policy which will cover far more aspects of your holiday.

All that said, there are downsides to relying on your travel insurance to cover car hire excess:

• Upfront costs which you will need to claim back – It is likely you will need to pay the car hire company for any damage (potentially thousands of dollars), and go through the rigmarole of claiming it back from travel insurance. Some car rental companies may try and charge you a significant amount for a stone chip. One car hire company tried to charge me for damage on a car which they had tried to charge my boss when he’d hired the same car the week earlier.
• Paperwork, paperwork, paperwork – It’s to be expected your travel insurance company won’t make your life easy. Expect to provide a great deal of paperwork to prove your claim, and expect delays in the process.
• The car rental excess may be hire than your travel insurance cap – The excess varies greatly between car rental companies. Some may have an excess of AUD $6000, whereas your travel insurance policy may have a limit of AUD $2000 unless you pay to upgrade it.

For these reasons, travel insurance covering car hire excess may be the cheaper option, but may leave you out of pocket thousands of dollars while you claim the excess back from your travel insurance company.

Mickey Thompson tyres, named after the legendary American racing driver of the same name (Michael Lee “Mickey” Thompson), are considered one of the best brands of 4WD tyres worldwide.

That’s why you see them on a lot of Aussie trucks and utes.

But what is the right Mickey Thompson tyre for your 4WD?

Well, that depends on your style of driving. If you use your 4WD mostly on-road, with the occasionally jaunt on sand or mud, then an all-terrain ATZ is what you’ll want.

However, if you’re a more serious off-roader, or happy to take the hit on noise levels on-road, then a more meaty mud-terrain MTZ is what you want.

Below we’ll take a look at a range of Mickey Thompson 4WD tyres, but make sure you take a look at Tyroola who will hook you up with the best prices.

Mickey Thompson All Terrain Tyres

Mickey Thompson ATZ 5 Rib

80% Road & Sand , 20% Dirt & Mud

The Mickey Thompson ATZ 5 Rib is an excellent all terrain tyre which performs equally well off and on the road.

The tread lugs give this tyre great wet weather handling and they feature reinforced side walls to reduce damage when venturing off-road.

They include a solid centre rib which reduces noise and increases straight line stability. Overall, this is a great choice for all terrain drivers and look great on any rig.

Recommended for the weekend off roader.

Mickey Thompson STZ

80% Road & Sand , 20% Dirt & Mud

The Mickey Thompson STZ represents the latest technology in all-terrain tyres.

These tyres feature ‘Z’ shaped which offer increased traction over wet and greasy roads. The tread pattern provides excellent stearing response, superior grip, and more traction making them perfect for on and off-road use.

They include textured shoulder lugs for added traction off-road and have an extra nylon belt laid between the tread and the steel belts giving them improved strength and stability.

Recommended for the weekend off roader.

Mickey Thompson ATZ 4 Rib

60% Road & Sand , 40% Dirt & Mud

The Mickey Thompson ATZ 4 Rib is an awesome heavy all terrain tyre which performs equally well off and on the road.

The 4 rib design provides excellent off road traction on a wide variety of terrains. It incorporates large tread lugs which offer excellent handling in wet and greasy conditions.

These tyres also include sidebiters which are specially designed to help climb out of ruts and bog holes.

Recommended for the serious off roader.

Mickey Thompson Mud Terrain Tyres

Mickey Thompson MTZ

40% Road & Sand , 60% Dirt & Mud

The Mickey Thompson MTZ is the king of the mud pit!

These fantastic mud tyres are designed for, and deliver maximum traction in off road and on the black top. They include huge stepped sidebiters which are designed for climbing out of ruts and offer excellent protection from damage.

The new tread pattern on these tyres delivers the performance you need with surprisingly little noise. They’re one of the quietest heavy traction tyres on the market.

Recommended for the serious off roader.

Mickey Thompson Baja CLAW

20% Road & Sand , 80% Dirt & Mud

The Mickey Thompson Baja CLAW is the ultimate mud tyre for the off road fanatic. Definitely not for school or Coles runs (or are they?).

These directional tyres feature huge 23 degree angled treads which operate in a similar fashion to tractor tyres. They’re self cleaning and provide amazing traction without generating too much road noise.

They include reinforced side walls just below the tread and have scolloped alternate shoulder tread blocks which provide excellent off-road bite and provide superior traction in the most boggy conditions.

Definitely recommended for the off road fanatic!

Mickey Thompson Dirt Road Touring Tyres

Mickey Thompson F-C II

60% Road & Sand , 40% Dirt & Mud

The Mickey Thompson F-C II is the perfect dirt road touring tyre.

It includes a full depth tread pattern for maximum grip and huge shoulder lugs and stepped shoulders to offer maximum off-road traction.

The sharp shoulders of these tyres bite through the top layers of dirt offering excellent high speed dirt road stability and performance.

Recommended for the outback tourer.

Which Mickey Thompson 4WD tyres do you run on your wagon?

Let us know in the comments, and make sure you mention any pros or cons you can think of.