If you want to import a car from Japan, such as from the Japanese car auctions, your easiest option is to enlist one of the many brokers. Yes, you pay a fee, but you also take out the uncertainty of the procedure.
A good import broker will discuss with you what type of car you want – make, model, colour, spec, manual/auto/tiptronic, turbo, non-turbo, glass roof siR (Honda CRX reference), and so forth.
They’ll also ask you what grade of car you want, which is basically the Japanese auction rating based on interior and exterior condition (more on this later).
I highly recommend going through the process of importing a car from Japan. There’s nothing quite like waiting for that ship to come in with your new ride on it.
Let’s take a look at the ins and outs of importing a car from Japan into Australia:
You probably have a type of car in mind already, but below are some of the most common cars imported from Australia according to brokers:
There’s nothing quite like a bullet point list, so here’s some convincing reasons to import a car from Japan.
It’s worth covering the drawbacks as well, so let’s skirt over them here. I thought about small print, because I know you don’t really care about this stuff, but here you go if you’re boring:
Import costs can be high if you don’t do enough research and choose a cowboy importer. Compliance with Australian regulations can be a pain – I had to pay for a baby seat ISOFIX anchor point for a sports coupe rear seat which wasn’t even big enough to fit a baby seat. Then I had to strip off all the window tint because it was too cool for Aussie regs. Insurance companies may not recognise your car, or make you pay more because of it (check with insurance companies before importing). Parts can be harder to get, but if you do due diligence you’ll find many JDM cars share the same parts as Australian domestic Japanese cars.
Consider all the above minor cons. Having owned numerous JDM cars over my life I can only recall minor problems. Most of the time they weren’t my problems, rather my mechanic ordering the wrong part and causing a slight delay.
It may come as no surprise Australia has some of the strictest laws prohibiting the import of most vehicles. I suggested using an import broker, right?
The basic law states a vehicle may only be imported if it has never been sold locally in full volume. This applies to vehicles that are essentially the same vehicle with different badging (such as Ford Laser or Mazda 323).
A vehicle is considered to be a different model if it varies substantially in design to a local car. The Nissan 300ZX is a great example as it was only available in Australia as a 2+2 seater version. That means we can import the Jap spec 2 seater Nissan 300ZX. Different engine type or size does not classify a car as a different model, so be wary of that.
Once a vehicle is deemed to be a different model it must pass the S.E.V.S. criteria in order to be allowed for import.
All vehicles are judged using the S.E.V.S. ruling system. There is no easy way to explain this quickly but basically vehicles must meet two out of the following 4 criteria:
Obviously not all cars would pass these criteria. Most of the popular JDM cars would have been judged already, but if there’s a vehicle that you think would be eligible for import that is not listed, it’s worth getting an import specialist to lodge an application for you.
Just because the vehicle type has been approved for importing, it doesn’t mean you can just buy one and ship it to Australia.
Any vehicle that comes into Australia needs an import permit issued by DOTARS in Canberra. Under the current laws, the import approval for SEVS cars must be lodged by the compliance workshop (RAWS). An import broker will help you with this part of the process if necessary.
Did you know you can import any car as a personal import if you have owned and used it for at least 12 months overseas first?
This might be a good incentive to go and live in Japan for a year, or even the UK or America where JDM imports are very common.
You’ll still have to apply for an import approval for a personal import, but it’s an easier process if these circumstances apply to you. You will need to provide registration and insurance paperwork to prove ownership history and use of the vehicle.
I actually did this myself – I stayed in the UK for a year where I bought a top spec JDM Honda CRX in black, with VTEC, and a rare as rocking horse poo glass roof. When I shipped the car to Australia it was one of only a few in the country. Sadly there came a time when I had to sell it, but I made a great profit.
Any vehicle built in 1988 or older is allowed for import into Australia without restriction, however as with any other vehicle you will need to get an import approval from DOTARS in Canberra.
These older cars don’t need to go through the normal SEVS compliance process, but you will need to do some basic modifications and get an engineers report proving that the car meets the relevant ADR’s for the year of manufacture. The work necessary for this will vary between different cars and also which state of Australia you live in, but generally speaking allow up to $1500 for compliance work on most popular 1988 models.
Before we cover how the Japanese auction grade sheets work, here’s an important tip – if you can get the chassis number of a JDM car, you can pay a few bucks for a very thorough history report.
A CAR VX report will give you information on factory recalls, accidents & repairs, previous auction gradings (many cars go through various auctions before being exported), and a very good idea of mileage over the life of the car to date.
If you have a JDM car already, and like most grey imports were given very little history of the car when you purchased it, a CAR VX report is a fantastic investment, and will add value if you wish to sell the car.
CAR VX can be found here – https://carvx.jp/
Most auctions (and some stock dealers) have an auction grading system which uses numbers and letters to give you a very thorough view of what condition a vehicle is in.
It can be hard for us Aussies to understand the Japanese scrawls on an auction inspection sheet, but not impossible. The most prominent indicator of a car auction grade is a letter and a number, such as “4” and “B”, which gives you a great overall indicator of the condition of a car.
Auction sheets do vary, but most will be very similar to the sample grade sheet below which shows a basic annotation in red to help you familiarise yourself with the various aspects.
The auction sheet, once translated, will help you understand if there is a full service history and car documentation, the condition of the exterior and Interior, leather seats, and so forth.
If you’re looking for a car with factory options, then the below acronyms should help you identify them on the auction sheet:
All inspection sheets will have a diagram of the car’s body. There will be a lot of different marks inspectors will place over this diagram to describe what they see.
The following is the most common marking scheme:
AUCTION GRADE (Exterior) | |||
S | As new condition, under 5,000km | ||
5 | Vehicle is like new. All original body parts. No repair needed on vehicle. Usually only given to vehicles less than 3 years old. | ||
4.5 | Vehicle is in excellent condition. No slight scratches or dents. | ||
4 | Vehicle in good condition, few scratches/dents due to normal wear as you would get with any normal vehicle. | ||
3.5 | Vehicle has a few scratches or dents visibly. The grade is usually given to a vehicle in average condition. | ||
3 | Various scratches or dents, some paint blemishes. | ||
2 | wholly badly corroded, non standard car, or modified car | ||
1 | inferior car, basically a pile of you know what. OR … very heavily modified car. | ||
RA or A1 | Vehicle has been in a minor accident. It has been repaired to an acceptable standard. | ||
R or A | A vehicle which has been in an accident where some parts have been repaired or replaced. | ||
AUCTION GRADE (Interior) | |||
A | As new condition. No faults. | ||
B | Very clean condition poss. very slightly dirty. | ||
C | Clean but with cigarette burn. | ||
D | Dirty or stinky or big wear/rip on seats |
For the record, when I first imported a JDM car circa 2010 I struggled to find the variety of A1s and B1s on the auction sheet. It was a grade 4B van, and despite being around 10 years old when I imported it, was almost immaculate.
As of 2024, my most recent import – a Toyota Vellfire – was a little rough around the edges despite also being a 4B grade. It was clear the interior had sun damage, with a melted dash, faded interior plastics, and tatty gear knob. From discussions with various importers it seems the Japanese auction grading system isn’t as stringent as it once was, but still a very good guide.
Usually you’ll find a combination of letters and numbers dotted around the image of the car.
This is what they mean:
A1: Scratch or crack, 2- 3cm
A2: Scratch or crack, less than 10cm
A3: Scratch or crack, more than 20cm
U or B1: Dent of “a bean “size
U or B2: Dent, less than 10cm
U or B3: Dent, more than 20cm
W1: Repaint in as new condition
W2: Repair & repaint in good condition
W3: Repair but the gloss of surface is bad
Imagine the posh meals and champagne you could dine on for that money if you stayed at home?
Thankfully car hire in Tasmania has dropped back to more realistic levels. This should give you hope of touring the beautiful island state in the best way possible – on wheels. Having done so myself, I highly recommend the adventure.
As of 2024, a hire car from Hertz or AVIS may still set up back around $250/day, but using the tips below you can hire a car for as little as 70 bucks a day – cheaper than the cost of car hire in Melbourne!
At the time of writing (February 2024), the cheapest car available to hire in Tasmania for the first week of March is a Kia Picanto from East Coast Car Rentals. This would set you back $72.25 per day, but is such a small car suitable for touring Tasmania?
In comparison, the cheapest car hire we found in Melbourne for the same week was $112.01/day – Over 50% more expensive.
If you would prefer to hire a car from a larger company such as Hertz, your cheapest option is much more – $254.11 per day. Considering the price difference, this is also for a small economy car, a Suzuki Swift, Hyundai Accent, Kia Rio, or Toyota Yaris.
Thankfully, a more practical intermediate car like a Toyota Corolla or Mitsubishi ASX won’t cost you much more per day at either a major car rental company or a smaller one. Expect to pay $10 to $20 more per day for a more practical car, or even an SUV.
As a curve ball, a Suzuki Jimny or similar would set you back $297.49 per day with Thrifty. That’s not much more than the economy cars available at Hertz or AVIS, and despite being a small car, is also a fun (and economical) way to tour Tasmania.
All quotes are from car rental price compare website VroomVroomVroom.com.au.
When Australians want a cheap holiday, they go to Bali. No car required.
Tasmania is not that kind of holiday. It’s a life experience, not a holiday.
As the 26th-largest island in the world, covering around 68,401 square kilometers (26,410 square miles), Tasmania is still the smallest state in Australia in terms of land and population.
What that means for you, on your driving holiday, is a whole range of mouth-watering benefits:
If you were originally put off by how expensive car hire can be in Tasmania, but re-convinced by the previous section on why Tasmania is an absolute must life experience, then let’s look at how to get the cheapest car hire possible in Tasmania.
Getting the best prices on car hire in Tasmania is mostly a combination of planning, timing, and comparison shopping.
Here are quick-fire tips to make sure you get the best price on car hire in Tasmania, and have the best adventure possible:
With the above tips you should be able to find more affordable car hire in Tasmania, but there are two final points we must cover:
Review Rental Terms
Carefully review the terms and conditions, including insurance options and fuel policies. Sometimes cheap deals may not be as cheap as you think once you factor in additional fees.
Always Read Reviews
Always make sure you read reviews of a car rental company you are considering. Make sure they have a good reputation for service and vehicle quality.
Additionally, always ask for a confirmation of total cost, including any potential additional fees, before making a reservation.
If car hire in Tasmania wasn’t expensive before, the COVID pandemic caused two things to happen – (1) an increase in mainland Australians opting to holiday in Tasmania rather than other countries, and (2) car rental companies in Tasmania reducing their fleet during the pandemic.
Although both of the above factors caused car hire prices to reach eye-watering levels after the pandemic, as of 2024 normality has almost returned.
Being an island, combined with the cost of car transport across the Bass Straight, makes car hire a far more convenient option. Transporting a car from Geelong to Tasmania on the Spirit of Tasmania will cost from $179 each way, which may be viable if you live near Melbourne, but from further afield you must also factor in fuel costs.
Most tourists to Tasmania therefore prefer to fly to Tasmania and hire a car for the duration rather than transport their own car. What that means for all tourists, whether from mainland Australia or further afield, is strong demand and high car hire prices.
In Australia a car must have rego, payable annually by the car hire company. This covers 3rd party insurance and the excess includes 3rd party property.
We’re often put off by the amount of small print in a car hire contract, only made worse after a long flight and eagerness to embark on our holiday while waiting at the car hire counter.
Being covered by our travel insurance policy can alleviate some of our stress, so it is worth knowing what your travel insurance policy covers or taking out a policy which covers car hire excess.
A car hire company may charge $35/day on top of the rental fee for “premium” insurance, and it is in their best interest to sell it to you.
If you’re uneasy about driving in Tasmania, or damaging a hire car, then you may well be tempted into paying such an excess. However, $35/day over a two week trip is almost $500. For that money you can get a far more comprehensive travel insurance policy which will cover far more aspects of your holiday.
All that said, there are downsides to relying on your travel insurance to cover car hire excess:
For these reasons, travel insurance covering car hire excess may be the cheaper option, but may leave you out of pocket thousands of dollars while you claim the excess back from your travel insurance company.
]]>This was determined by a recent analysis of over 100,000 car insurance claims by a UK firm Interactive Driving Systems. The study showed nearly almost 24% of claims were listed as “hit while parked”.
If this has happened to you, either by a responsible party who has given you their name, number, and insurance details, or buy an unknown hit and run, you probably want to know what you can do about it?
We’ll take a look at your options shortly, but first consider this interesting fact.
In many “hit while parked” cases, insurance companies note many drivers do not necessarily tell the whole truth. The study mentioned above also determined an unusually high percentage of “unknown third party” claims, and it doesn’t take much to work out it may be the driver themselves (the claimant) who really did the damage.
Let’s take a look at what you should do if you’ve been hit while parked:
Any minor car accident is frustrating and can ruin your day. Whether you discover the damage when returning to your vehicle, or finding a note on your windscreen from a responsible party, you should try and stay calm.
If the damage was truly done by an unknown third party, try and determine if any CCTV in the area can help substantiate your case. Most car parks and many inner-city Australian roads are covered by the big brother of CCTV, and in this instance it may prove very useful.
Whatever the reason for your “hit while parked” incident, being calm and methodical will help you through the situation, and keep in mind it will get resolved.
Here are some tips to help you substantiate an insurance claim which gets processed quicker and in your favour:
Usually in anger and frustration we fail to cover the basics we’ll need for the insurance company.
Firstly, take note of the extent of the damage to your car, and also nearby objects and structures. If someone has driven into your car, they may have driven into something else as well.
Take photos from different angles, both close up and showing the entire scene. A photograph from a distance can help your insurance company determine how the third party hit your stationary vehicle.
If you have been hit by an unknown third party, it is possible they have parked their car elsewhere in a carpark out of guilt. Have a look around for other damaged vehicles, especially if there are flecks of your paint on their car (I got this tip from an episode of CSI New York).
You must record key information. Do this at the scene, not when you get home.
Try and record the following information:
If you find a note on your windscreen do not assume the information is accurate and can be dealt with later. You may still benefit from witnesses who can offer relevant information or confirm your insurance report. An independent witness can be very valuable when filing any car insurance claim.
If you find an unknown third party has not left a note, have a quick look around the car in case one has fallen on been blown off your windscreen.
If the extent of the damage is major or costly, contacting the police is worth doing. This will give you a crime number, and may help track down the offending driver.
Notify your insurance company about the accident as soon as possible, preferably at the scene.
Make sure you give your insurance company all the details you gathered above, and make the information as accurate and concise as possible. Provide them with photos and any witness statements you’ve gathered.
Your insurance company will guide you through the claims process and advise on next steps.
If you are unsure of your insurance coverage, it may be worth review your insurance documents first.
For any major damage you will likely go through insurance, but if the damage is minor it is worth seeking repair estimates from local auto repair shops.
You may find it cheaper to fix the damage without going through insurance, especially if you risk losing a no claims bonus. Hopefully the owner of the vehicle who hit your car will be willing to cover the cost in full, but even for an unknown third party incident a small repair may save you a great deal of time and paperwork, even if it costs you money.
Hopefully the information above has given you all the information you need to tackle the situation calmly.
Sometimes insurance claims can take time, or if repair work is involved you may find yourself without a car for a period of time. This is understandably stressful, but staying as calm as possible will benefit you greatly until the matter has passed.
Good luck!
Being hit while parked is an unfortunate event, but by following the steps above you should be able to deal with your insurance company and resolve the matter with confidence.
Timely reporting, clear documentation, and effective communication with your insurance company will help ensure a smooth resolution and get your car back on the road or looking tip top.
]]>In fact, fully 80% of diesel breakdowns can be attributed to contaminated fuel, which leads to contamination buildup in repository banks and in the fuel system. That’s because this type of debris can congest filters and clog them, which can also make things like your fuel pump wear out faster.
Ultimately this can lead to your engine failing.
Worse, fuel these days is very expensive, and if your engine is not running at its best, it’s not going to have the best fuel efficiency, either. It’s also going to be more polluting to the environment.
Because of that, it’s a double whammy; your engine becomes less efficient and doesn’t use expensive diesel fuel as efficiently, which costs you more money; AND your engine experiences significant wear and tear at the same time, leading to disrepair, costly replacement even for “easy” parts like fuel filters, and ultimately, breakdown.
Now, there’s help, though.
The proper diesel performance products can take care of all of these problems, so that your engine runs more smoothly, has a longer life and has better performance, too.
One of these products are diesel performance chips. These chips can give your engine both more torque and more power, and give you better fuel economy, too.
Diesel performance chips are simply “plug and play” computer chips which you plug into your engine – don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds.
Many Australian retailers sell diesel performance chips calibrated for your vehicle type, and shouldn’t need any more adjustment.
If you do tend to “tinker” with things, so that you put things in like intercoolers, exhausts, and turbos, you can fine-tune yourself either manually or with the assistance of your laptop computer or professional. This is assuming you opt for a programmable chip rather than a piggyback chip.
Most chips can be installed and set up in five minutes, and if you want to revert back to “normal” you can simply take it out by unplugging it. It installs down off your ECU so that everything remains intact as far as engine error detection and operational safety systems.
You can read more about diesel performance chips here.
]]>Thankfully there are various payment options you can consider, and you should choose an option which suits both you and the seller.
A seller can be just as daunted as you as the buyer, but remember – if they request any form of payment other than those recommended below, then question why, and use caution.
The method you choose depends on the value of the vehicle and your preferences. You should always consider the concerns and risks involved for you as the buyer, but also those of the seller.
Note: Always spend a few bucks on a CarHistory check before buying any used car in Australia.
In this article we will look at safe and secure ways to pay for a car in a private sale in Australia:
For cheap cars, particularly those with a lower market value, cash is always the easiest way to pay. Cash is also your most powerful bargaining chip, and it’s easier to knock down the price when you’re dangling the carrot of cash under the seller’s nose.
Offer $2,000 today as that’s what you have on you, or otherwise you’ll have to come back tomorrow – maybe, after looking at another car you’re supposed to be viewing.
Paying for a private sale car with cash is simple, convenient, and gives you an immediate exchange of funds for the seller.
However, here are both the buyer’s and seller’s concerns with a cash transaction:
Buyer’s Concerns:
Seller’s Concerns:
When purchasing a more expensive car a physical bank transfer can offer the most reassurance for both the buyer and seller.
Arrange to meet at your bank, and arrange the transfer there. The bank will give a receipt to both you and the seller as a clear paper trail, and the funds will likely be transferred immediately.
You can also arrange to fill out and exchange the transfer papers for the car while at the bank, which is a good idea.
For extra reassurance, you will also be on camera.
Buyer’s Concerns:
Seller’s Concerns:
Electronic bank transfers are a convenient and secure way to make payments for expensive cars. Most transfers these days are immediate, but any delays can pose an issue for both the buyer and seller.
It is unlikely a seller will hand over the keys of a car until they have received the money, so if you transfer the money via online banking you may find yourself in limbo for a period of time. Perhaps days. As the buyer your money has left you account, and as a seller it has not been received. What should you do?
Usually a phone call to your bank will give a good idea of how long an electronic transaction will take to the seller’s bank account. If you pay a small deposit before hand, this should confirm a transaction is immediate, which should also be the case for the remaining funds.
Make sure you consider the following concerns to ensure a smooth transaction.
Buyer’s Concerns:
Seller’s Concerns:
While cash is generally more common for cheaper cars, it’s still a good option for expensive vehicles if you feel having a large wad of cash is safe. I used cash to purchase a $60,000 Porsche 987, so it’s definitely doable, but I’ve never had such a load hidden in my y-fronts ever before, or ever again. Needless to say I had an awkward walk along St Georges Terrace in Perth back to my car.
Below are the concerns of both the buyer and seller when buying an expensive car in cash.
Buyer’s Concerns:
Seller’s Concerns:
With the rise of digital currencies like Bitcoin and Ethereum, some buyers and sellers opt for cryptocurrency transactions for high-value cars. As a seller this can mean the money you receive for your car might be worth double by the end of the day, or it could be worth nothing.
Nevertheless, cryptocurrency transactions are immediate, leaving a trace between the account of the buyer and the account of the seller.
The risks of cryptocurrency transactions for buying a car in a private sale are obvious, but consider the below concerns for both the buyer and seller:
Buyer’s Concerns:
Seller’s Concerns:
In conclusion, the method of payment for a private car sale in Australia depends on the vehicle’s value and the preferences of both the buyer and seller.
While cash is suitable for cheaper cars, more secure options like physical bank transfers, electronic bank transfers, and even cryptocurrencies are possible for expensive cars.
Regardless of the method chosen, both buyers and sellers should take precautions to ensure safety, security, and proper documentation – this is the best way to ensure a smooth and secure relatively risk-free transaction.
]]>Thankfully it’s not as complicated as you might think, but there are several essential steps you must follow to ensure a smooth transition.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of getting your ride into Australia, and we’ll share some insights gathered from top experts in the field as well.
One of the most critical decisions you’ll make when shipping your car to Australia is selecting the right shipping method.
The two primary options are container shipping and roll-on/roll-off (you can say “RoRo” if you want to sound like you know what you’re talking about).
Container shipping offers added protection, but RoRo tends to be more cost-effective. Issues can occur with both, so it’s best to anticipate small issues to occur. For example, I shipped three Toyota Alphards in one container, and one was so heavily pressed to the rear of the container I had to fork out $200 to replace a rear bumper bracket.
Your choice will depend on your budget and the level of protection your vehicle requires. If you use an agent, they’ll likely save you money by shipping your car and others in one container.
Before your car can embark on its journey across the Tasman Sea to the beautiful and warmer shores of Australia, there are important preparations to be made.
My first experience with importing a car into Australia was my Honda CRX siR. I had to pay a fair whack for “bio cleaning”, even though my car was, by my standards, already pristine when I shipped it.
Make sure you clean your vehicle thoroughly prior to shipping it to Australia. Ensure everything is in good working order, and remove any personal belongings – they may mysteriously vanish during shipping.
Getting your car roadworthy in Australia can be a pain if it fails inspection (known as “going over the pits”). If your car is in good shape, which is what you want, then it shouldn’t be a problem. Generally it’s worth getting all issues sorted in New Zealand by a mechanic you know, before shipping it to your new home in Australia.
Taking these steps will help prevent delays and complications during the shipping process.
Selecting a reputable shipping company or agent is crucial. The top-rated companies provide professional services and have experience with international car shipments. In short, they’ll make sure your car gets safely into Australia without any costly hic-ups.
I’ll add you can do it yourself – I know, because I’ve done it myself – but even I use an agent these days. Far. Less. Stressful.
Research companies and agents thoroughly. Read customer reviews and Facebook comments, and obtain quotes from different companies to compare costs and services offered.
Both New Zealand and Australia have specific customs and import procedures when it comes to shipping a car. Australia is the stricter of the two, and by that I mean the most painful, and potentially the most costly.
Make sure you comply with all requirements, which may include paying import duties, taxes, and ensuring your vehicle meets safety and emissions standards.
Requirements can differ based on type of car and age of car.
As a bonus tip, expect time delays for the import process. As much as you long to take your car out for a spin as soon as it lands at the docks, you won’t be able to. You’ll need to give the process a few weeks, so read a book on patience.
Protecting your vehicle during transit is vital.
Worst case with RoRo, it will roll of the boat.
Don’t worry too much, because that rarely happens, but minor damage and theft of aftermarket car parts can and does occur.
Most shipping companies offer insurance, but it’s wise to understand the coverage and consider additional insurance options. This extra layer of protection can provide peace of mind throughout the shipping process.
How much is your car worth to you? Is it worth paying a few bucks in insurance?
It’s always helpful to hear from those who have been through the process. Real-life experiences can provide valuable insights and tips to make your car shipping experience as smooth as possible.
Connect with others who’ve shipped their cars or seek advice on online forums and communities. This is easy in this day of social media, and highly recommended.
Here’s Jim’s account of shipping his beloved Skyline into Australia (using Phoenix Shipping):
I recently shipped my Nissan Skyline from New Zealand to Australia using Phoenix Shipping, and I couldn’t be more pleased with the entire experience. From the very beginning, their professionalism and excellent communication made the process remarkably smooth and stress-free. They provided clear guidance on documentation, fees, and timelines, which was incredibly helpful.
What impressed me the most was their commitment to the safety and security of my vehicle. My Nissan Skyline means a lot to me, and Phoenix Shipping ensured it was handled with the utmost care from pickup to delivery. When my car arrived in Australia, it was in the same impeccable condition as when it left New Zealand – a huge relief!
Phoenix Shipping’s assistance with customs and import procedures was also invaluable. They guided me through every step, making sure all requirements were met without any issues. Their knowledge of international shipping regulations was evident, and it made a significant difference in my experience. Moreover, their insurance options provided extra peace of mind.
In conclusion, I highly recommend Phoenix Shipping for anyone looking to ship their vehicle from New Zealand to Australia. They truly transformed what could have been a stressful experience into a smooth and successful endeavor. Thank you, Phoenix Shipping, for your outstanding service!
Best regards, Jim
Our Kiwi mate Jim who shipped his Skyline from NZ to Australia
We hope this guide has given you the confidence to ship your car with you from NZ to Australia. Here in Oz we love our cars, and any car enthusiast is our friend.
For more information, here are a few useful resources:
In conclusion, shipping a car from New Zealand to Australia involves several key steps, from choosing the right shipping method to navigating customs procedures.
By carefully planning and following the advice of experts, you can ensure a successful and stress-free experience.
Remember the specifics may vary depending on your individual circumstances and type/age of car, so always consult the most up-to-date resources and experts in the field before embarking on your car shipping journey.
Safe travels, and we look forward to seeing your ride on Aussie streets!
]]>Are we overpaying, and if so, what are we overpaying on?
Usually tyre fitment ranges from $15 to $50 for an average tyre, plus tyre cost, but you can easily pay double. Prices go up exponentially the bigger your rim, or the more serious your roadster or off-roadster. For example, I kitted my Mitsubishi Delica out with Bridgestone KO2s in 15″ for HALF THE PRICE of the 16″ equivalents (ironically the Land Cruiser target market).
In this article we’ll look at how you can figure out how much you’re paying for the tyre, and how much you’re paying for someone to fit it. Only then can you really know what you’re paying for.
We’ll also cover choosing the right tyre, and how to avoid being an utter mug and overspending unnecessarily.
I amazed myself writing this article. Seriously. You’ll see how I saved $352 on one set of tyres, and better rated sports tyres at that (suitable for a Lamborghini). I kid you not, that’s $352 savings on tyres for my Honda Civic daily driver.
Don’t believe me? Read on:
I can’t stress this enough, but most of us choose the best, most premium tyre we can buy. Especially if we have a car we love, and we love our cars.
The problem with this is premium tyres (like W rated), cost $$$s more because they can withstand speeds of 270 km/h. I don’t drive at those speeds on Australian roads, and I bet you don’t too. No matter how much you hoon.
Top brands like Michelin, Bridgestone, and Pirelli might be the only brands you’ll choose, but did you know some of their mid-range tyres are perfectly capable of withstanding your cornering antics, and cost far less than their flagship brands which command the biggest profits?
If you’re not a brand wh*re, then the likes of Yokohama, Toyo, and Kumho can be really good too. Sometimes better. I swear the Toyo Proxes R888r tyres were the grippiest, most fun tyres I ever ran on my Honda CRX, and I recommend you don’t turn your nose up at such brands.
I talk at length about finding the best cheap tyres here, but if you want to know how to find out exactly how much you’re paying for the tyre, and exactly how much you’re paying for fitment, and save money on both, then keep reading.
You could ask at Tyrepower or Bob Jane T-Marts for a breakdown, but you may be none the wiser. Thankfully I’ve found an easier way, and that’s using the search tool on Tyroola.
If you don’t know who they are, then they’re an online Australian tyre retailer who send the tyres to a local tyre fitter of your choice. The best thing about them is transparency, and you’ll exactly what I mean as you read on.
Firstly, go to their website (linky above), and click the “Find Tyres” button on the homepage. Grab the numbers from your current car tyre (Width, Profle, and Rim Size) and enter them in like below. Then click “View Car Tyres”.
This will give you a list of tyres prices without fitting. This is a great way of finding out exactly what you’re paying for the tyre itself.
For the search above I was given three recommended tyres – Premium (Bridgestone), Value (Hankook), and Budget (Winrun) – with a huge difference in price. $167 for the Bridgestones, H rated to take a sports coupe to 210 km/h, down to 60 bucks for the budget Winrun’s, also capable of taking a sports coupe to 210 km/h.
That’s the difference between $668 for 4 x Bridgestones, or $240 for the Winruns, and both are rated the same (H). That makes the budget tyres almost one third of the price! That may suit you perfectly, but keep in mind cheaper tyres can be noisier, less grippy, or suffer in wet weather – reading reviews should give you a better idea.
* Note - Please expect prices to differ from the above. We know all too well how much prices of everything are rising, and it is very likely tyre prices will be higher at the time you read this guide!
I actually found a gem by scrolling down a bit – Kumho ECOWING‘s with 15% off for only 100 bucks a corner!
That makes the Kumho’s much cheaper than the Bridgestone’s, and an even better rated tyre (V rated, for 240 km/h) suitable for sports cars. That’s a stonking $268 saving over the Bridgestone’s, and a better rated tyre to boot. For me I really didn’t want to opt for the Winruns as I’m not a Sunday driver, so the Kumho’s are the perfect middle ground for what I want, and much cheaper than the big brand name.
Before we find out the price of the tyre fitment (labour), why not nip over to Tyroola yourself. What deals can you find?
Then of course, come back here, and read on. More money saving tips to come!
Continuing from the above, now we’ve found a tyre we’re interested in simply click it to see further details.
It’s well worth checking out the finer details and customer reviews to give you a better understanding of the tyre itself. Check out other reviews as well, not just those on a retailer website. Don’t be too put off by “noisier tyres”, as most modern cars are so well insulated you won’t notice any difference whatsoever – I know this for a fact having just returned from a three week 4,000km road trip on Yokohama Blue Efficiencys, apparently noisier than most.
On the tyre details page you’ll be given a fitted total inclusive of “tyre protect” which is basically a 1 year warranty (I removed that because I’m a bargain hunter).
But now for the interesting bit…
You also have the option to select a FITTING SERVICE – this is exactly how you’ll find the real cost of labour to fit your tyres. You may be surprised how much tyre fitting prices can vary.
Like most cool people, I live in Scarborough, Western Australia. I was surprised how many options I had for tyre fitters in my area, and some of them come right to my door:
You can see from above the labour part of buying new tyres will set me back between $108 and $192. That’s a big difference when you consider how many pints of beer you can buy with the difference in cost.
With such a range of tyre fitters it’s easy to choose one suitable for you. A really nice benefit of finding tyres on Tyroola is you can choose a tyre fitter which suits you – one which is highly rated, a mobile tyre fitter who will come to you (handy if you have a flat at home), or one which saves you a lot of money.
You can also clearly see additional costs. In the screenshot above you can se the tyre fitter on Cleaver St offers a really good price for tyre fitting, which is attractive despite their current lack of reviews, but wheel alignment would set you back an additional $90. Wheel alignment is recommended, but it’s good to see the difference in price between tyre fitters.
It’s really beneficial to me to have complete control over what I buy, and the transparency of buying tyres through an online platform like Tyroola can really save money in these modern days of technology and tyres at our fingertips.
I hope this guide has helped! If it has, all we ask is for you to tell your mates about this guide so they can save money too!
If you’ve been tapping away on your calculator while reading this guide to finding the real price of tyre fitting, you may realise I’ve saved myself $352 (or thereabouts).
If I opted for the budget Winruns I would’ve saved a further $160! That’s $512 cheaper fitted than the Bridgestones!
Most Aussies would’ve taken the first tyre recommendation, the H rated Bridgestone ECOPIA at $167+ per corner. This is because we generally pick a brand name we’ve heard is good, and usually the best (or first) recommendation.
Instead I found the Kumho’s much cheaper, on offer, and as an added bonus with a better V rating. Even though I have no plans to drive my road car on Perth streets at 240 km/h, I know from other car enthusiasts they’re a perfectly good, perfectly respectable tyre.
That’s a big saving over the Bridgestone’s, which I know are rated higher than what I need, and I also know I’d be paying quite a bit for the name.
Secondly, being given the choice to choose a reputable local independent tyre fitter which suits my needs also allowed me to save money. I actually went with the cheapest, which meant travelling 18km, but they did a perfectly good job and it saved me hard earned bucks.
I know I’ve used Tyroola as an example throughout this article. I checked the prices of local tyre fitters as well, and I’m happy to say Tyroola got me the best deal.
]]>Australia is a land of open roads, winding highways, and breathtaking coastal drives, making it the perfect playground for sports car aficionados like you and I.
Whether you’re craving the thrill of the track or the joy of cruising scenic routes, the Australian automotive market has hidden gems to satiate your desires.
Let’s explore the best sports cars under $100,000 in Australia, so you can make an informed choice and hit the road in style. From sleek European marvels to roaring American muscle, we’ve got the inside scoop on the top picks which will make your heart race without breaking the bank.
So, fasten your seatbelt and get ready for a thrilling ride through the world of affordable sports cars in Australia!
Price Range: Starting at $51,290
The Subaru WRX STI combines rally-inspired performance with everyday practicality. With its turbocharged engine, all-wheel drive, and iconic wing, it offers an exciting driving experience. They’ve been a rally icon for decades, and are hands down one of the best, most affordable drivers cars for way under $100k.
I’m old enough to remember the first WRX hitting the streets, and what an awesome beast it was. It could out perform and out corner pretty much all other cars on Australian roads under a few hundred grand. Just like the Mitsubishi EVO, it offered normies like us an affordable sports car which was arguably more enjoyable to drive than some super cars.
In fact the only car the WRX struggled to out-corner was my JDM Honda CRX siR on OZ Racing Coilovers, much to the dismay of one WRX owner who tried his best.
Price Range: Starting at $36,790
The Mazda MX-5, often referred to as the Miata, is a lightweight and agile roadster. It’s a pure, unadulterated driving machine, perfect for those who love the thrill of an open-top ride.
For those who don’t know any better, they may assume the owner of an MX-5 cuts hair for a living, but in 2023 there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that, and it’s totally not true – people who care about hairstyles don’t drive convertibles.
You still see the old pop-up headlight MX-5s around, and the reason for that is they’re f*cking fantastic drivers cars.
The best thing about the MX-5 is how great they look in a set of OZ Racing ULTRALEGGERA rims in white.
Don’t believe me?
Feast your eyes:
Price Range: Starting at $62,990
The Ford Mustang is an American icon known for its powerful V8 engine and unmistakable style. It’s a muscle car that delivers an exhilarating blend of speed and nostalgia, and you’ll know this from how many times they feature in Hollywood films. It’s a car Nick Cage would drive, so be the Aussie Nick Cage.
Price Range: Starting at $64,400
Yes, I know you’re wondering why I haven’t mentioned the RS3, also under $100k in Australia.
The reason is practicality.
The RS models have always been awesome, but sometimes there’s too much of a good thing. It’s like having a prime juicy steak in the fridge and not being allowed to eat it. That’s the problem with Aussie speed limits, traffic lights, and general lack of twisty roads. Fine if you live next to Bathurst, but for daily driving the RS models are a case of over-expenditure most of the time.
The Audi S3 offers is a much more practical daily, and still a noteworthy sports car in it’s own right. The S3 is a blend of luxury and performance.
The turbocharged engine and Quattro all-wheel drive system gives you a spirited driving experience in a compact package, whether you’re going to work or going to Coles.
Admittedly the turbocharged engines are not as cool as the earlier V8s in the S range such as the S4, but we need to save the planet (apparently) and these new gen smaller-engined turbocharged Audi’s are still as exhilarating.
Trust me, my mate Matt has one, and he scares my tits off when he drives me to work.
The Audi S3 is an excellent, very well engineered German beast, and at that prices saves you money for a nice fishing boat for when you want to calm down.
Price Range: Starting at $52,000
The BMW 2 Series Coupe is a small sports car that packs a punch. It offers precise handling and a range of potent engines, making it a true driver’s car. No matter what you think about salesman, our German friends know how to nail performance and handling with their cars, and the 2 Series Coupe is a fine example. If it’s not for you, pick one of the others and buy this for your wife.
Price Range: Starting at $86,990
The Chevrolet Camaro brings American muscle to Australian roads. With a V8 engine and bold styling, it offers plenty of power and presence. Forget Ford and Holden, the Chevy Camaro is a lot of car for the money, and a lot of noise to boot.
Price Range: Starting at $116,600 (with options under $100k)
The Porsche 718 Cayman is a well-balanced, mid-engine sports car known for its superb handling and responsive engines.
While it starts just above $100k, you can find options that fit the budget. Don’t worry about the close relationship the Cayman has to the Boxster, they’re different beasts. I know, because my last car was a Cayman S 987.2 (also under $100k second hand).
Price Range: Starting at $49,990
I’m old enough to remember the 350Z being released. Even the 80s icon the 300ZX for that matter, and the 280Z is one of my all time favourite cars, ever. The Nissan 370Z is a classic JDM sports car with a V6 engine which delivers an exciting driving experience. It’s known for its sharp handling and distinctive styling, and is hands down a great choice under $100k.
Price Range: Starting at $87,126
The Toyota GR Supra is a collaboration between Toyota and BMW, resulting in a sports car with a turbocharged inline-six engine. It offers a blend of performance, style, and refinement.
The original Supra was known for it’s brutish acceleration (and lets be honest, thirst for petrol) being as fast as a 911 for much less $. Cornering was a bit more of an issue, but not for Aussie city dwellers.
The beauty of the GR Supra is there aren’t many around, so it’s a cert as a future classic. Less than $100k and money well spent!
Price Range: Starting at $56,990
Topping our list is the Volkswagen Golf R. It’s a hot hatch that combines practicality with exhilarating performance. With all-wheel drive and a potent turbocharged engine, it’s a fantastic value for money. One of the original hot hatches, fast Golfs have always been in fashion, and have always been loved – for good reason. Like those boxy Golfs from the 80s, you know the Golf R is a future sports classic, and at that price you could probably stretch to two.
These sports cars under $100,000 offer a range of driving experiences, from raw power to precision handling, ensuring there’s something for every enthusiast in Australia.
Some are so far under $100k you can buy one for your wife as well.
Got something else in mind? Prove us wrong – that’s what the comments section is for!
]]>When we say “change a car tyre” usually we mean changing one wheel over for a spare wheel, rather than the tyre itself. We’ll cover that first, but if you want to know how long it takes to change the actual tyre we’ll cover that as well.
When I worked as a mechanic the typical time to change a wheel (or corner as we would say) would be 10 minutes.
If you get a flat tyre on the roadside and know what you’re doing it can take around 20 minutes give or take. If you’ve never changed a tyre before then probably a bit longer, and you should be very careful if you don’t know what you’re doing.
This is how:
If you have any concerns make sure you drive safely home or to a safe location. Tyre companies such as Tyroola can come and replace your tyres at home, which is well worth looking into for a fresh set of tyres.
Changing the tyre on the rim, also known as tyre replacement or tyre mounting, typically involves removing the old tyre from the rim and installing a new one.
The time required for this process can vary depending on factors such as your experience, the type of tyre, and the equipment available.
If you get a puncture off-roading on Lancelin dunes or some other off-road area of Australia (or on road for that matter) then it’s possible to change a tyre yourself if you have a spare, but you probably won’t have the right equipment though. I’ve had to ghetto fix a tyre on a beach once, with some effort.
Here’s a general overview of the steps involved in switching out one tyre for another on a rim:
The time required for this process can vary widely based on your experience and the specific tools you have available.
It’s important to take your time and follow safety precautions when changing a tyre on a rim to ensure a safe and secure fit. If you’re unsure about any step of the process, it’s advisable to seek assistance from a professional tyre technician or auto mechanic.
]]>Did you know most Australians overspend on premium tyres unnecessarily?
For example, a premium tyre with a speed rating of W is designed for speeds up to 270 km/h.
When was the last time you drove 270 km/h on Australian roads, Mr S. T. Hedgehog?
Even a tyre speed rating of S (6 stops down from W) is perfectly fine for speeds up to 180 km/h, and will cost you far less.
But “Are they safe?” I hear you ask.
Yes, if you buy the right tyre for the job – more on this later.
Related: How I saved $352 finding out the real cost of tyres + the real cost of tyre fitting.
In this guide to cheap tyres, we’ll cover the following:
There are a few things worth considering when buying a new set of tyres, whether cheap/budget or premium.
Safety should always be your first and most important consideration, but how you drive, the car you drive, and where you drive will help you decide which tyre is right for you. Most of the time this isn’t the most expensive tyre. Far from it.
Even premium tyres can be dangerous.
All tyres become dangerous as they wear. This puts you at greater risk when the tread becomes thin, unevenly worn, compromised (such as a dreaded nail), or age (old tyres are bad news).
That’s why you should always keep an eye on your tyres, and change them before they become a safety risk.
You probably don’t want the cheapest tyre either. Some brands aren’t very good at all, and these can affect traction and braking, or just annoy you with a constant drone on long drives.
Avoid really cheap tyres.
If you’re smart and buy the right tyre for your needs, this will save you blowing a lot of money on premium tyres, even if they do have “state-of-the-art tread design” or “superior grip” so your car sticks like a koala on a eucalyptus tree.
Read on, and you’ll learn how to choose the right tyre for your needs, for the best possible price.
How you drive plays a big part in what tyres you buy.
Sticking part-used budget tyres on your over-clocked Nissan Skyline might not be the best idea, but can be ideal for getting your Holden Barina to and from Coles on Sundays.
If you drive aggressively or race at weekends then invest in a better rated tyre. Otherwise, save your money, buy a cheaper tyre, and with the money you save take advantage of today’s ridiculous interest rates like accountants do.
Most drivers need a tyre for “normal road use”. By that I mean tarmac roads, not heavily corrugated dirt tracks in the Sunraysia region of VIC (where Sunraysia rims hail from).
If you regularly hit rough terrain or take your ute or 4×4 off-road, you’ll need to invest in a more premium tyre. It’s as simple as that.
You don’t want a blow out 50km from the nearest pub, do you?
(Yes, this happened to me)
So you’ve invested in a Mercedes AMG A45 and you’re looking for cheap tyres?
That’s absolutely fine, as long as you drive it like a regular A Class.
If your car is a performance or sports car, or off-road beast, then this will affect your choice of tyres. For any other car, a mid-range tyre will very likely do the job.
Considering the way you drive, the terrain you drive on, and how safety conscious (or wealthy) you are will help guide you to choosing the right tyre for your needs, and save $$$s.
Let’s debunk some myths:
Let’s take a look at how to identify reliable and safe cheap tyre options, by considering safety ratings, brand, customer reviews, and seeking expert advice:
Check what safety standards a brand of tyre adheres to. American, EU, Japanese and Australian brands may adhere to stricter manufacturing standards than other imported brands.
Always ensure the speed ratings and load ratings (see tables below) are appropriate for your vehicle and how you drive.
Buying a cheap tyre doesn’t mean buying a brand you’ve never heard of from some far off land, it means buying the most affordable tyre for your needs.
Most reputable tyre manufacturers have reasonably priced tyres to suit the needs of most drivers, for a far more affordable price than their premium brands. These won’t get you around Mount Panorama race track, but are a great choice otherwise.
Buying a cheaper tyre from a reputable brand gives you reassurances with safety and build quality.
The Golden Age of the Internet means we have genuine consumer feedback at our fingertips. If you don’t take advantage of what others are saying about a cheap tyre, then you’re buying blind.
Online reviews are another great source of information, but keep in mind many reviews are written to market and sell a brand, so check the credibility of the reviewer – are they offering genuine information, or are they trying to make money from you?
Finding a reputable tyre specialist in your area is a must, and it’s worth checking customer reviews and feedback to make sure they really are reputable.
An expert tyre specialist will know exactly what brand and model are right for you, and if they’re genuine will recommend exactly what you need.
Many tyre specialists will recommend the tyre which makes them the most profit, and you can’t blame them as this is unfortunately the nature of business, so it’s worth having a good idea what you want first. I’ll cover that next.
If you’re struggling to know what tyre to choose or how much to spend, the following factors may be worth considering.
The factors which matter most to you will help you make the right choice, or allow you to communicate to your tyre fitter what you want so they can make the right choice for you.
It’s not just about the brand or model of tyre you buy. Most of the time it’s about where you buy and the price you pay.
Most tyre fitters offer specials on specific brands, and there is also the option of buying cheap car tyres online.
Here are tips and strategies for finding your next set of tyres:
Find your local (reputable) tyre fitters, and search their website for current tyre prices and types. Most allow you to type in the specifics of your tyre, or even the make and model of your car, and give you an aggregate list of affordable options.
Online tyre retailers like Tyroola (who’re great by the way) have become very popular in recent years due to competitive prices, so it’s worth comparing prices with them as well. An online tyre retailer will often have a service where a tyre fitter will come to your home and change your tyres on your driveway.
Keep in mind a local tyre fitter will also check wheel alignment and other metrics, which are services an at-home tyre fitter may not offer.
Keep an eye out for seasonal sales, holiday promotions, and clearance events. Many retailers offer discounted prices during specific times of the year, such as EOFY, allowing you to cash in on significant savings.
Some tyre retailers may offer bundled deals which include tyre installation, alignment, or additional services like servicing at a discounted rate. This is often a cost effective way for you to have work completed on your vehicle, and benefits the tyre retailer as they can make the most of the time your car is at their premises.
The following tips apply to premium tyres as well, but as you’re budget conscious you’ll likely care more:
If you’re the type of person to turn your wheels on full lock while stationary, such as turning or pulling out of a drive, then you should break this habit. Doing this repeatedly will prematurely wear your tyres or cause damage.
Do you hit kerbs often? Or pot holes? Both will affect tyre wear.
Below are ways you can adapt your driving style to improve the longevity of your tyres:
Regular checking your tyres for the following will allow you to maximise their longevity:
This is especially the case for tyres with different speed ratings.
If you have one brand of tyre on one corner, and a different brand or type of tyre on another corner, this will likely cause excessive and uneven wear.
You may be fine if the two front tyres differ slightly from both rear tyres, but ideally you want even tyres on all four corners of your vehicle.
What a tyre retailer may call “cross selling” or “upselling” may feel like a legitimate business technique to them, may feel like a scam to you. A less-reputable tyre fitter may offer amazing deals on cheap tyres, but use other ways to take your money.
Here are ways a tyre fitter may extract more of your hard-earned dollars than you expect:
Tyre speed ratings are determined with laboratory tests. The tests work by running the tyre in steps of 10km over 10 minute periods until the required speed has been met. The tyre must demonstrate it can sustain a speed when tested with similar loads.
You may be a little confused why some letters are out of sync, but this has occurred from the speed ratings of vehicle categories being increased over time.
Speed Rating | Maximum Speed km/h | Max Speed mph | Vehicle Type |
L | 120 | 75 | Off-Road / Light Truck |
M | 130 | 81 | Temporary Spare |
N | 140 | 87 | Temporary Spare |
Q | 160 | 99 | Winter 4X4 |
R | 170 | 106 | Heavy Duty Light Truck |
S | 180 | 112 | Family Sedan / Van |
T | 190 | 118 | Family Sedan / Van |
U | 200 | 124 | Sedan / Coupe |
H | 210 | 130 | Sport Sedan / Coupe |
V | 240 | 149 | Sports Car |
Z | 240+ | 149+ | Sports Car |
W | 270 | 168 | Exotic Sports Car |
Y | 300 | 186 | Exotic Sports Car |
(Y) | 300+ | 186+ | Exotic Sports Car |
Load Index | Max Load (kg) |
81 | 462 |
82 | 475 |
85 | 515 |
86 | 530 |
87 | 545 |
90 | 600 |
92 | 630 |
95 | 690 |
96 | 710 |
Below you’ll find some of the common questions asked about cheap tyres. Anything which hasn’t been covered above that is.
Cheap tyres may wear quicker than premium tyres. Usually the price difference accounts for this, but as a general rule they will cover less km.
The lifespan of cheap tyres varies based on factors like driving habits, road conditions, and maintenance. Regularly inspect tyre tread depth, and consider replacing tyres when they reach the recommended minimum tread depth.
I know quite a few people who run discount tyres for 50,000 to 60,000 Kms before installing the next set.
This question is difficult to answer as the circumstances might be very different. For example, a flat tyre is more likely to blow, but that would be your fault. Road hazards are also equally responsible for blown up tyres. In fact, 9 out of 10 times, road hazards are responsible for blown up tyres, irrespective of the quality of tyre.
Yes, many budget-friendly tyre options are safe for regular use provided they meet industry safety standards and are used appropriately for their intended road conditions.
Look for reputable brands known for providing reliable and budget-friendly options. Check customer reviews and ratings for insights into the performance of specific tyre models.
Yes, some cheap tyre models offer good wet traction. Most of the time premium tyres cost much more to cater for speeds significantly above the speed limit. Look for tyres with specific tread patterns and materials designed to perform well in wet road conditions.
Some budget-friendly tyres are designed to offer competitive fuel efficiency, so may be more efficient than premium tyres designed for other purposes, such as sport and performance. Look for tyres with high UTQG (Uniform Tire Quality Grading) ratings for improved fuel economy.
For off-road driving, consider investing in specialised tyres designed for rough terrains. While some cheap tyres may offer decent off-road performance, purpose-built off-road tyres are usually more suitable, and you’ll more likely save the embarrassment of getting bogged.
Yes, reputable online sellers can offer reliable cheap tyre options. This is possible from having less overheads for their premises, and not needing to have a customer-facing section or staff. Always read customer reviews, verify seller ratings, and check for secure payment options before making a purchase.
The best time to find discounts on cheap tyres is during end-of-year sales, holiday promotions, and seasonal clearance events.
That said, if you scout around your local tyre fitters you will find most will have some brands of tyre on special offer.
Old tyres must be disposed of properly, such as at a tyre recycling center. Your easiest option is to have a tyre retailer dispose of them for you, which they will usually do for free.
You should not dispose of old tyres by any other means, and if using a skip you must ensure the company allow for tyre disposal.
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