Then again, those who buy a new car from a dealer will pay hefty amounts of hard-earned cash. When you know what to look for when buying a second hand car, it’s likely you’ll buy something very reliable for far less money.

So without too much ado, here’s a Second Hand Car Buying Checklist for you to print out and take with you on your car buying adventure:

Physical and Functional Checks

First, let’s start with physical and functional checks, basic things in the car inspection checklist.

Engine

The last thing you want when buying a second hand car is a dodgy engine. For most cars a broken engine equals scrap heap heaven and zero return on your investment.

Check the engine oil. If it’s creamy or has an extra brown color, it is probably mixed with coolant. Not a good sign, and you’re looking at future repairs. Check the engine oil before and after the test drive to check the sludge and identify the faulty parts in an engine.

The engine shouldn’t make unusual noises during the test drive. If it is, leave the car, because these noises will turn into bigger problems.

Accident Patterns, Rust, and Signs of Abuse

Rust on body parts gets worse quickly and weakens the car. Unless you want to fork out $$$s on bodywork repairs it’s best to avoid buying a second hand car with rusty body parts. This includes rusty panels, pillars, boots, and engine bay brackets and radiator support.

Moreover, if the car shows signs of collision, dents, or signs of abuse, it means the current owner hasn’t been driving it well, or possibly hooning it around town. Some Hondas and Toyotas can take such abuse, but you should still consider it a red flag.

Fluid Leakage

Fluid leakages aren’t good news. Take a good look in the engine bay, under the engine bay, and around the underneath of the car. Any signs of leaky oil around the engine block could be an expensive repair, especially if the engine or gearbox needs to be removed to fix even the smallest leak.

If you find a leak, ask the owner about it and judge their response. Do due diligence before buying a car with any kind of fluid leak.

Smoke and Steam from the Exhaust

In cold winter months (so I’m talking about Melbourne), you may find some steam coming from the exhaust. This doesn’t mean there’s an issue with the car (well, unless it’s an electric car!)

However, smoke coming from the exhaust is something to worry about. When the car is started or driven away, ideally you want a friend standing behind the car (not too close) to keep an eye out for smoke.

If there is smoke, it will be white, blue, or black. This is what it may mean:

• White smoke – This means the engine coolant is leaking into the engine. It’s a red flag, so walk away.
• Blue smoke – This means the engine oil is burning in the combustion chamber. Not only can this be an expensive fix, it can also be dangerous. Another red flag, so walk away.
• Black smoke – This is a sign the car is burning too much fuel. This should be a cheaper fix, or one you don’t care about (What? You don’t care about Planet A!?). Whether you buy a car emitting black smoke may depend on how cheap it is, or how much you want to upset cyclists.

Paint Job

Sometimes it’s hard to notice when a paint job is original or a repair. Have a good look around the car from different angles, squatting down if necessary. Can you see any areas of paint which differ from the rest of the car?

Paint repairs may be a slightly different shade or texture, and suggest either an accident or rust repair.

Particularly look around the bumpers, doors, and wheel arches (which can often rust).

As it’s difficult to spot paint repairs with the naked eye, you may want to call a friend who’s better at this stuff (or pay your local car mechanic a slab of VB).

Documents

Most second hand car buyers have already convinced themselves they’re buying the car by the time it gets to viewing documents. Who likes documents, right?

However, there are some important checks you must do before you hand over a wad of cash.

Title

Always make sure you’re buying the car from the legal owner.

If there’s some reason the owner isn’t selling the car, such as “My mate’s working up north, init”, and “needs the cash urgent, like”, then it’s probably best to walk away.

Always check the title belongs to the owner and not a financing company. If the car is financed, i.e. the loan hasn’t been paid off yet, then consider that a big red flag. Don’t take the owner’s word if he (or she) says the loan has been paid off.

Bills of Sale

Bill(s) of sale refers to the documents made when the car was last sold to the current seller. It should include details about the car and the previous owner, including make & model, vehicle identification number (VIN), names and contacts of the previous owner, date of sale, and price.

Make sure you check the VIN matches the stamp on the car. This is often under the engine bay, but in some vehicles it can be tucked away in an obscure place. A quick Google search would give you the answer, so it’s worth knowing before you view the second hand car.

Rebuilt and salvage titles

Rebuilt means the car has been in an accident. You can assume it was totaled, then rebuilt. If you’re buying a classic or unusual car you may overlook this if you are assured the rebuild was done professionally, but keep in mind these cars should have a much lower price than non-rebuilt cars.

Salvage titles refer to the insurance-declared titles. This means the car was in an accident and the insurance company decided it was cheaper to pay out the original value than pay for the repairs. Sometimes these cars are fully repaired by a professional and resold into circulation, especially with classic and unusual vehicles. To give an example, I’m a keen enthusiast of 1980s/1990s Honda Civic CRXs, a car often undervalued by an insurance company due to age, but still loved by many enthusiasts.

Test Drive

Whatever problems you might not detect in the first look and physical test, you may pick up in the test drive.

Needless to say, you should always test drive a second hand car before you buy it. If there is any reason why the owner refuses to let you drive it, other than checking your ID and insurance, or taking a deposit, then consider this multiple red flags waving in front of your eyeballs.

The most important things to tune in to on a test drive are steering and suspension. Does the car operate and feel like it should?

A test drive will especially tell you about steering and suspension; how well the car operates and follows the driver’s commands.

What to check for when test driving a second hand car

• Acceleration – Check for smooth acceleration without hesitation or jerking.
• Braking – Are the brakes even and responsive? Are there any unusual noises while braking, such as scraping?
• Steering – Does the steering feel responsive? Does the car pull to one side? Does the car pull to one side while braking?
• Suspension – Is the car smooth over bumps? Does the suspension bounce excessively, or make any knocking noises?
• Handling -Is the car smooth around corners? Is there any instability or unusual vibrations?
• Transmission – Are gear shifts smooth and responsive? Does an auto gearbox clunk, or is a manual gearbox smooth and easy to change in every gear?
• Noise – Listen for unusual engine, transmission, or suspension noises. Make sure the stereo is off while driving, and drive a little while with the windows open to listen for exterior noises.
• Dashboard – When starting the car, does the engine light display momentarily before turning off? If not, it may mean the bulb has been removed to hide an engine fault. Make sure all gauges and warning lights read correctly.
• HVAC – When buying a car in the Aussie summer you should still check heating, and in winter you should still check aircon. Make sure ventilation works as expected, because you don’t want to have sweaty pits when the sun comes out.
• Cruise Control – If a second hand car has cruise control, then make sure it works correctly. Even if cruise control isn’t something you particularly care about, it’s definitely a bargaining chip if it doesn’t work.

Final Checks

This is where the Second Hand Car Buying Checklist gets a little more in-depth.

OBD Codes

For decades most cars have had a rudimentary computer (or “ECU”) to control and monitor the many functions of a car. When a second hand car “throws a fault”, this can be recorded on the computer. With a tool known as an OBD Scanner (which you can easily buy), you can check the on-board diagnostic codes.

On-board diagnostic codes are of two kinds: permanent and historic. Attaching the scanner to the car’s computer will reveal OBD codes. The permanent code indicates a serious problem with the car, so a major red flag.

In some older cars you may not need an OBD Scanner, instead a light on the ECU will flash an error code (a bit like morse code) when you turn the ignition key.

It’s unlikely, but it’s possible to hide faulty codes with old data so the scanner cannot detect them. If in doubt you should get an expert (or your local car mechanic) to make sure the system has been messed with.

This Second Hand Car Buying Checklist does not cover everything. There are many components in all cars, and many issues which occur. When buying a second hand car you should always assume there will be aspects of ongoing maintenance, but hopefully armed with this checklist you’ll be able to avoid the major issues and pitfalls of buying a second hand car!

So, now you’ve viewed the car and checked off all the above, it’s time to make a decision! Good luck!

There are some real bargains to be had on 4X4s in Australia with only 10 grand to spend, and you can pretty much guarantee a resale value for as much as you paid for it.

Whether you’re looking for a serious off-road beast or a 4X4 capable of touring around Australia properly, then the cars listed below will give you ideas you’ve probably never thought of.

Most Aussies only buy Toyota, sometimes Nissan, but mostly Toyota. If you have $20k to spend you would likely opt for a Toyota yourself – as that’s budget Land Cruiser money.

But if you only have $10k to spend on a 4X4 then don’t worry. You can definitely pick up Land Cruisers for under $10k, even the legendary 80 series, but look a little further and you may find something better.

So here you are, below are what we consider the best 4X4s in Australia on a $10k budget (or less!).

I’ve owned or driven most of these cars, so can speak from experience!

Mitsubishi Delica

With almost all Mitsubishi Delica’s being priced under $10k second hand they’re one of your best options. This iconic van is not only capable off-road, it’s also a capable camper.

Personally I love the look of the 4X4 Delis, and I’ve owed one myself – a Delica Chamonix (always mispronounced “ix” when the real French pronunciation is “ee” at the end). Being built on a Mitsubishi Pajero chasis it’s more than capable on Aussie dirt tracks and dunes, to a point, and also offers you loads of space in the back for a mattress, your dog, and your wife if you’ve got a proper Aussie one.

Here’s a few pros of a Mitsubishi Delica as a 4X4 easily under $10k:

Decent Off-Road Capability

The Delica’s four-wheel-drive system is more capable than you may think, especially combined with a good set of AT tyres and some off-road prowess.

The chasis is sturdy with pretty good ground clearance, and most come with a factory fitted bull bar (alright then, roo bar).

Spacious Interior

Out of the budget 4X4s in this guide the Delica wins hands down on interior space. It’s basically a van built on a 4X4 chassis. It’s a design so perfect for Aussie life it’s amazing how few car manufacturers have capitalised on it. Yes, you can get a Troopie if you want space, but at what cost?

Camper Potential

You may be lucky and find a Delica already converted to a camper, and assuming you’re not planning any hardcore off roading this can be a fantastic benefit.

Imagine driving up the coast and camping on a peaceful beach with the luxury of a rock-and-roll bed and home-from-home kitchen? You won’t get that in a Hilux.

Reliability on a Budget

The reason you still see the 4X4 Delicas around is testament to (1) their reliability, but also (2) the love people have for these cars.

Parts are easy to get thanks to their commonality with the mass-produced Pajero, so it’s easy to get OEM and pattern parts anywhere in Australia.

The diesel engines are rock solid, and if looked after a high odometer reading shouldn’t put you off. Given the age of these cars, you’ll be very lucky to find one with under 200k on the clock.

For reference, the Delica I owned had 260km on the clock when I bought it, and I racked up 10s of thousands of km on numerous trips around Western Australia. No issues until I stupidly left the rad cap off and blew the engine on a 45 degree day.

Community and Support

As a cult classic, the Mitsubishi Delica has a strong enthusiast community and loads of aftermarket parts available.

A good community should never be ignored as it’s a valuable source of help and inspiration. Got a problem with your Delica, you’ll find help easy peasy, and most problems are easy and cheap to solve.

Jeep Grand Cherokee

Wait a minute before you click that “X” button in the top right corner of your browser. The Jeep Grand Cherokee is a lot of car for your money in Australia, and they’re not as bad as you think – if you choose wisely.

Why?

Most Aussies would prefer to pay double or even triple the price for a Land Cruiser Troopy or Wagon. That means, combined with a slightly negative reputation in Australia, means Jeeps drop in value far more than Toyota counterparts. If you want the best 4X4 under $20k in Australia, then yes, opt for one of those Land Cruisers. But if you only have $10k to spend, the Grand Cherokee might be a fantastic option.

And guess what – I know, because I’ve owned one. The V8 petrol to be precise.

Not only was the Jeep more economical than my mates Prado on a trip all the way from Perth to Exmouth and back, it was also a higher spec.

The flip up rear hatch is a really nice bonus on the jeep – park on the beach, mattress in the back, and soak up the sunset.

I bought mine off a civilised older couple, and even though they racked up 200,000km, lots of it towing a boat or caravan, the car was still in great mechanical condition other than a small oil leak which was so minor I never bothered to get it fixed.

If you can find a decent Jeep Grand Cherokee, here are some of the benefits:

Decent Off-Road Ability

Jeep are known for their off-road capability, although more so in America than Australia where they’re often overlooked. A decent set of tyres combined with a powerful engine means most off-road needs will be a breeze.

Ground clearance of the Grand Cherokee isn’t as good as the Jeep Wrangler, but it’s still good, and in return you get a much more executive cabin – more on that later.

The Grand Cherokee as stock comes with a reliable 4X4 system and solid suspension, for far less money than other popular 4X4s.

Luxury Features

The cabin feels very refined, and not far off a Range Rover. I think it’s fair to say the Grand Cherokee has the most executive cabin out of all budget 4X4s on this page – it’s simply more refined, more thought out, with better materials.

The box shape and boot offer a very spacious and practical interior with loads of storage space. That makes it a great option for long Aussie road trips, and you can sleep in the back if you remove the middle seats first.

Powerful Engines

If you opt for the V8 version you’ll even feel posh as you roar around city streets. Turning the key gives you that lovely V8 roar, reminding you how much power these Jeeps have.

Other engine options – diesels – are more economical, but on long trips the V8 isn’t as bad as you think as the engine barely ticks over at freeway speeds.

Given you can buy a Grand Cherokee well under $10k with money to spare, and the option of a beautiful planet-killing V8, it might be worth overlooking what your mate says about Jeeps being inferior to Land Cruisers.

Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series

The 80 is, in my opinion and probably yours, the coolest Land Cruiser bar the classic FJ40s.

The angular, square-shaped headlights on the 80 series are bad ass, and give the vehicle a timeless retro look. They’s as cool, if not cooler, than the pop-up headlights of the 1980s.

Being a Land Cruiser means off-road capability is 2nd to none, and although most in good nick are upwards of $10k there are still bargains to be had. Just do your research, and give the car a thorough look over before buying.

I’ve never owned an 80, but for a year practically lived in an ex-mine 76. I drove that car through rivers up to the windows and it never skipped a beat. There’s a reason Land Cruisers are so well respected in Australia, Africa, and around the world – they’re Off-Road Daddys.

Let’s take a look at the reasons why a Land Cruiser 80 Series is a great 4X4 for under $10k:

Off-Road Dominance

The Land Cruiser 80 series is a force to be reckoned with off-road.

It doesn’t have the wizardry of modern 4X4s with all their gimmicks, but you should consider that a plus because these cars are raw off-roaders in their most enjoyable form.

The 80 has a robust body-on-frame construction, powerful engine, and all the grunt you need both on-road and off-road.

If you find a Land Cruiser 80 for under $10k, or any Land Cruiser for that matter, then you’re onto a winner.

Reliability and Availability of Parts

As soon as you drive into the outback – the proper outback – you’re realise almost every car is a Land Cruiser.

What that means to you is roadside support will be second to none. If you breakdown in the bush you won’t be far from spare Land Cruiser parts.

You won’t get that with any other make of 4X4, under $10k or otherwise.

All Land Cruisers are known for their legendary reliability, and the 80 has proven it’s reliability over decades. When you buy an 80 you’re buying a robust drivetrain, solid axles, and a car you can take anywhere and do anything with (as long as it’s not X rated).

Community and Customisation

The Land Cruiser 80 is another cult classic loved by Australians for decades. That means buying one will allow you to join a community of like minded people ready and willing to support your love for this off-road gem.

The opportunities for modifying Land Cruisers is insane, with so many aftermarket parts available in Australia. The most common mod is a lift-kit, giving you even more on and off-road presence than the car has stock, but that’s just the beginning.

Subaru Forester

I’ll get grief for saying this, but most Foresters aren’t the best sub-$10k option if you want a 4X4.

That said, if you can pick up an older Forester with a low range manual gearbox, lift it, and fit a tasty set of AT or MT tyres, you’ll be laughing.

The Subaru Forester isn’t the biggest car, so you can’t live in it like you can with a Delica (or even a Land Cruiser 80), but this setup makes for a decent off-roader for very good money.

What you lose out on in power you can make up for in a lighter chassis. With your tyres at the right pressure, and enough speed where speed is needed, the Subaru Forester can be a great 4X4 candidate.

Want to go on a long trip?

Pack a tent.

4X4 On A Budget With Added Fuel Efficiency

Opting for a lighter 4X4 car like a Subaru Forester rather than a full-blown off-roader means much cheaper second hand options, more to choose from, and better fuel efficiency.

For example, a 2005 Forester might cover 8.6L/100km whereas a Land Cruiser might be 14L/100km – that’s a huge difference in thirst.

When looking for a Forester you’ll more likely find far less-abused examples, and many probably haven’t seen a speck of sand in their lifetime. You won’t find the same for Land Cruisers or Pajeros which are almost guaranteed to have a history of off-road abuse.

Practicality

Despite being smaller than the other off-roaders under $10k mentioned above and below, the dimensions of the Forester make it very practical for long Aussie road trips. There’s plenty of room for all your gear and a decent tent even though there’s not much chance of sleeping in the back on a long trip.

Toyota Hilux

You can look at the Hilux as the poor man’s Land Cruiser, but you shouldn’t.

The Hilux is a very capable 4X4, and I know that from experience. Like all Toyotas the engines are pretty much bullet proof.

There are downsides to owning a Hilux, especially an older budget Hilux – no airbags, traction control, ABS, and more road noise than more upmarket Land Cruisers – but you’ll see the benefits below.

A good tip, if it suits your needs, is to keep an eye out for a petrol engine with a single cab. These aren’t as sort after, which means you can get a better deal and a more reliable Hilux for under $10k.

Very Respectable Off-Road

The Toyota Hilux has earned its stripes as a robust and reliable off-roader.

Beach driving, dunes, or dirt tracks, you’ll often encounter numerous Hilux (Hiluxi if you’re Alan Partridge). This is because they’re more than capable off-road, but also affordable and reliable.

Just like Land Cruisers, the Hilux was designed for rugged terrain, with a solid chassis, capable suspension, and decent ground clearance (which you can easily upgrade with a lift-kit).

When Land Cruisers come with a premium price, even 2nd hand, the Hilux is a very good budget option. If your budget is $10k you’ll have better options looking for a Hilux as you would a Land Cruiser, with very few compromises.

Rugged Exterior, Decent Interior

I say “decent interior” loosely, because even some Land Cruisers don’t have a great interior. However, it does the job, and comfort and practicality boxes have been ticked.

What I love most about the Hilux is the rugged and bold exterior design, with the Hilux Surf being my personal favourite.

The look of the rugged Hilux really suits Australia. It’s bold, assertive, and also timeless.

Dependable Powertrain

When buying a 4X4 on a budget it’s worth investing in a car known for reliability, and you get that with any Toyota – more so with a Hilux or Land Cruiser.

Whether you buy a petrol or more fuel-efficient planet-murdering diesel, all are very capable when it comes to power and practicality on whatever road or dirt you choose to drive on in Australia.

Did I say planet-murdering?

Sorry, I don’t care about that.

Nissan X-Trail

Finding a Nissan Pathfinder in good condition under $10k might prove a challenge, but when it comes to the X-Trail you’ll find endless options.

10 years ago you would see X-Trails all over Aussie cities for the simple fact they hit the perfect target market. The rear seats would fold absolutely flat, and combined with the box shape of the car meant they were very practical for Australian life – both in the city and on jaunts along the coast.

What that means to you is you’ll easily find a Nissan X-Trail in decent condition under $10k wherever you are in Australia.

Going back 10 years ago, I was one of those owners, thanks to a company car scheme.

When I left the company I handed the car back, and they weren’t too happy about the condition I left it in. The reason being numerous off-road stints on dunes, beaches, and dirt tracks.

I have to say beaches were a bit too challenging for the X-Trail compared to the Land Cruiser 76 I had subsequently, but for most conditions it was perfectly fine. It was also very economical, which would mean your trip around Australia would cost you far less.

Modern Design and Refinements

Because the target market for the X-Trail was regular Aussies looking for a crossover between a practical daily drive and a weekend utilitarian vehicle for the Aussie lifestyle, it came with more mod-cons than pure off-roaders.

That means you’ll feel like you’re in a normal road car for when you want to use it on-road, and that may appeal to you.

The X-Trail may come with additions such as a nice sunroof, better safety features, ABS, and a more well-appointed cabin.

Fuel Efficiency

Like with the Subaru Forester mentioned above, being a lighter vehicle pays dividends in terms of fuel economy.

The off-road capability of the X-Trail is limited (but mostly acceptable), but you’ll pay far less in fuel getting to those far off off-road places.

Practicality

The box shape of the older style Nissan X-Trail is very versatile. You can get a very comfortable bed setup in the back (trust me – super comfy), and with the rear hatch open you have a fantastic unobstructed view of the sunset.

The X-Trail is a smaller car, so you don’t have the interior room as a Mitsubish Delica, Land Cruiser Troopy, or 76 Wagon, but if you’re happy with the compromise then an X-Trail can get you around Australia, including off-road, cheaply and efficiently.

Suzuki Jimny

Because I’m writing about the Suzuki Jimny last, doesn’t mean it isn’t the best.

Often overlooked as an off-roader because most Aussies love big, loud 4X4s, but put that judgement aside for just a moment.

The Suzuki Jimny (or Jimny Sierra) is one of the most fun cars you can drive off-road. What is lacks in grunt it makes up for in being lightweight and agile.

If you’re lucky enough to pick up an older Jimny with a tea-towel roof then you’re all set for some serious fun, but don’t disregard the less exciting looking hardtop models either. Plenty have been lovingly cared for on the driveways of urbanites, meaning little to no abuse – there are bargains to be had!

So leave the Suzuki Vitara’s for the supermarket shoppers and school run mums, and pick up a Suzuki Jimny for way under $10k!

Here are a few benefits to wet your wiggle:

Compact and Versatile

The small footprint of the Suzuki Jimny makes it very maneuverable and versatile. It will get you through tight off-road spots and bushland which bigger 4WDs simply can’t.

Narrow trails – no problem!

Robust 4WD System

Not only is the 4WD system in the Jimny robust, it doesn’t suffer the strain of pulling around a heavy chassis.

Whether you’re tackling muddy tracks or rocky surfaces, the Jimny’s 4WD system provides enough traction to conquer most Australian terrain, and often a more exciting off-road experience than modern cyber-equipped do-it-all-for-you off-roaders

Affordability

Being a smaller car means the Suzuki Jimny was much cheaper bought new, and much cheaper second hand than other 4X4 vehicles in Australia. They hold their value, but won’t cost you Land Cruiser money.

It’s not just the purchase price either, it’s maintenance and petrol.

The Jimny is so economical you’ll wonder if it’s running on air.

Upgrades!

The Suzuki Jimny has a such a vibrant aftermarket community, and you’ll have endless accessories and modifications to make your Jimny suit both your personality and off-road desires.

From suspension kits to meaty off-road tires, as a Jimny owner you’ll have the flexibility to customise your car to the max without breaking the bank.

Resale Value

The older more classic Suzuki Jimny’s hold their value like nobody’s business.

Don’t worry, you can pick up an amazing Jimny for under $10k, but assuming you look after it you’ll easily get your money back when you sell it.

Have Your Say – Feedback Welcome!

We all have our opinions on cars, and I’m sure some of the above have left you questioning my knowledge. That’s fine, and I’ll take it on the chin.

So what do you think? What is the best 4X4 for under $10k in Australia, and WHY!?

If you’re looking to upgrade the wheels you can choose steel wheels or alloy rims, but it is recommended you stick to the same size as your current caravan wheels.

We’ll cover the numerous aspects of buying tyres and wheels for your caravan in this guide, but don’t forget to read our how to on getting a real discount on tyres in Australia.

With that brief out of the way, here’s what we’ll discuss in this guide to caravan wheels and tyres:

Caravans on Aussie Roads (and Off-Road)

Your biggest consideration is what you use your caravan for.

If you plan to cover endless clicks on corrugated roads, or your 4×4 caravan on trailer will frequently hit dirt and dust, then you’ll have to pay more on tyres whether you like it or not. Wheels on the other hand don’t need to cost the earth – steelies for example – although a nice set of OZ Racing rims will really set your caravan apart from the rest!

Size and Specifications

Your easiest option is to match the size and specifications of the existing wheels and tyres on your caravan. Check the sidewall of the tyres for information on size, load capacity, and speed rating, and use these on a website like Tyroola to get a really good idea of cost of tyres and fitting.

When it comes to buying new wheels for your caravan you must verify the bolt pattern, PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter), center bore, and offset.

If this sounds complicated to you then no worries, here’s some examples based on common caravans in Australia:

Example 1:

• Bolt Pattern: 5 x 114.3
• PCD: 114.3 mm
• Center Bore: 67.1 mm
• Offset: +35 mm

Example 2:

• Bolt Pattern: 4 x 100
• PCD: 100 mm
• Center Bore: 56.1 mm
• Offset: +45 mm

Any wheel shop will know exactly what you need, but if you’re buying wheels online or second hand make sure (1) the centre bore, PCD, and bolt pattern match your hub, and the offset is within a reasonable tolerance.

Load Capacity

Consider the load capacity of the tyres.

The load capacity should be sufficient to support the weight of your caravan when fully loaded, so not the unladen weight. The load rating should meet or exceed the caravan’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).

Speed Rating

Most tyres sold in Australia will have a speed rating more than adequate for your caravan, and I’m sure you won’t be hooking it up to your V12 Aston Martin.

Nevertheless, all tyres have a speed rating, and you can use this handy chart to make sure it’s suitable for the speeds you intend to tow your caravan:

You see, the speed rating isn’t much of a problem for a caravan, but keep in mind better rated tyres come with additional benefits such as traction and durability.

Terrain and Climate

Consider the type of terrain and climate you’ll be traveling in. Are you planning to take your caravan on 300km corrugated roads, or plain old tarmac?

Different tyres are designed for various conditions, such as highway use, off-road, or all-season performance. Choose a tyre which suits your specific needs.

Ply Rating

The ply rating indicates the number of layers in the tyre construction. A higher ply rating often indicates increased strength and durability.

If you’re planning a long trip around Australia, especially on occasional dirt roads (which experience has taught me is impossible to avoid), then you may consider a higher ply rating to hopefully prevent middle-of-nowhere blow-outs.

Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)

Some modern caravans and vehicles are equipped with a TPMS – tyre pressure monitoring system. This is similar to many newer models of car, and will cause a warning on your dash which looks a bit like a jellyfish or angry Pac-Man:

Although having a TPMS offers clear benefits, you will need to ensure the new wheels and tyres you buy for your caravan are compatible with it.

Wheel Material and Finish

Choose wheels made from durable materials suitable for the conditions you’ll encounter. Consider the finish for aesthetics and resistance to corrosion.

Generally most wheels will do the job, whether steelies or alloys, but you may find cheaper wheels can and do break. Many caravan owners report wheels cracking if you have the misfortune of hitting a nasty pot hole, kerb, or take your caravan off-road.

Budget

Determine your budget for wheels and tyres.

While it’s essential to prioritise safety and performance, there are various options available at different price points. More expensive doesn’t always mean better, and steelies are a good example of a cheap yet durable wheel (you’re not paying for bling factor).

When it comes to buying tyres for your caravan, most people overpay unnecessarily for tyres rated far too high for their needs. If you don’t want to be one of those people, read our guide on how to get a real discount on tyres.

Manufacturer Recommendations

If in doubt, refer to your caravan manufacturer’s recommendations for wheels and tyres. This information is often available in the owner’s manual or through the manufacturer’s customer support. Usually a quick search on the caravan manufacturer’s website will give you this information.

Installation and Maintenance

I don’t want to teach you to suck eggs, but if you’re installing wheels (or tyres) to your caravan at home, then make sure they’re installed properly and bolts are tightened to the correct torque.

You don’t want your caravan to be heading in one direction, and a wheel spinning off in another direction (this happened to an old colleague of mine).

Maintenance and regular inspections are a habit you must get yourself into. We don’t use our caravans daily, so it’s easy to set off on a camping trip with slightly deflated and dangerous tyres.

Get in the habit of testing tyre pressure before any trips. A 4WD tyre compressor is a very sensible investment, especially if you go on long trips in rural Australia.

Getting a tyre shop to periodically check your tyres and alignment is a good idea to ensure optimum performance and safety, as well as even tyre wear.

Lastly, keep in mind tyres do age over time. With our road cars this is rarely a problem, but it’s much more of a problem when we have a caravan sitting on our driveways for long periods of time.

In this buyer’s guide we’ll cover the key aspects of the 370Z and also the Nismo variant, helping you make an informed decision about the car you already know you want to buy.

First Q: Nissan 370Z vs. Nismo?

So, you’re after performance, huh?

The regular 370Z is like a shot of adrenaline, but the Nismo version, well, that’s like a double espresso with an extra shot. Enhanced suspension, brakes, and aerodynamics mean this beast is ready to unleash on the tarmac, and you’ll be one lucky Aussie if you get your driving shoes in one.

The Nismo exhaust differs from stock, being a true dual exhaust system (the standard 370Z exhaust joins after the cat and splits again into two resonators). This gives the Nizmo a nifty HP boost and more aggressive engine tune.

But that’s not all. The Nismo also boosts the following:

• Rays Engineering wheels (fab JDM wheels)
• Aero Body Kit (allegedly 150lbs of downforce at 70mph, depending of course on wind conditions and direction of travel)
• The revered Nismo wing.
• Front and rear strut bars (to stiffen up the ride in corners) plus other brackets under body.
• NISMO sway bars.
• Carbon Fibre driveshaft (lighter = better acceleration).
• Uprated suspension (1″ lower than standard 370Z suspension).
• Interior weight reduction.
• Nismo seats.
• Nismo floor mats.
• Nismo engine cover.
• Plus the uprated exhaust and engine tune.

However, the Nismo is really just a 370Z with a bit of extra spice – the kind that’ll have you grinning like a Cheshire cat – but in many respects, so will a standard 370Z.

The real performance gains on the Nismo are the exhaust and tune, although the struts and suspension definitely aid cornering and fun factor. But these are simple mods you can do to a standard 370Z, with the end result being more of a sleeper 370Z yet just as quick (if not quicker).

370Z Reliability: Tougher Than a Roo in a Bar Brawl

When we fork out a lot of cash on any car we care about reliability.

If you’re worried about your Nissan 370Z falling apart faster than a poorly made sausage sizzle then fear not. Being a Jap car, and a Nissan, means the 370Z has a reputation for being as sturdy as a kangaroo’s kick.

Make sure the previous owner has looked after the car and maintained the service schedule, and make sure you do. With those boxes ticked this baby should treat you well.

Speak to any Nissan 370Z owner and they’ll swear by the reliability. And let’s face it, who doesn’t love a car that won’t let you down when you’re in the middle of nowhere, hooning around the countryside?

Seating: Two’s Company, Back Seats are for the Faint-hearted

Alright, here’s the deal: this ain’t your family wagon.

You may not have a kid now, or you may not have a girlfriend, but buying a Nissan 370Z will mean a girlfriend will follow, and girlfriends are always thinking about kids.

The 370Z is all about you and your co-pilot, so no back seat. Forget about bringing your work mates along; the focus here is on the joy of driving, not playing taxi driver.

370Z Performance: Unleash the Thunder Down Under!

No turbo, I hear you grumble?

Nah, mate.

This bad boy is naturally aspirated, delivering power in a way which will put a smile on your face.

But hey, if you’ve got the need for more ponies under the hood, there are ways to turbocharge it. Thankfully it’s easy to turbocharge your 370Z, and huge amounts of help and information on the Interweb. The reason – lots of people worldwide absolutely love their turbocharged 370Zs.

Just be ready to trade your wallet for that extra rush of power.

Or your girlfriend’s Prada handbag.

Speed and Horsepower

This machine ain’t just for show.

The 370Z has the grunt to match its aggressive looks. From 0-60, it’s quick enough to make your morning commute feel like a hot lap, and you’ll wake up early in the morning eager for it.

And if you’re eyeing the Nismo version, well, that’s like strapping a rocket to a cheetah. Hold on tight! Grrrr.

Drifting: Because Who Drives Straight Anyway?

You’ve got dreams of sideways action?

The 370Z is your ticket to the drift kingdom, and any red-blooded guy in Japan will tell you so.

Rear-wheel-drive, balanced chassis, and a willingness to dance – this car was literally made for the art of controlled slides. Just be sure to find a nice empty parking lot owned by your Uncle Jim, away from those pesky law enforcers, or better yet – our advice – is a track to let loose.

After all, we can’t advice you to scuff up your neighborhood.

Keep in mind some of your girlfriend’s gold and diamond jewelry can be pawned to fund fresh tyres.

Additional Tips for 370Z Buyers: Getting Your Money’s Worth

So, you’ve read the above and you’re convinced a Nissan 370Z is defo the car for you?

Here’s some tips for when you view your prospective new love-machine on wheels:

Buying Considerations

Watch out for the usual suspects – clutch, brakes, and suspension bits. This ain’t a granny car, so some wear is expected.

Lucky for you, the aftermarket scene is as lively as a Saturday night in Sydney, so parts and advice are easy to come by.

Ownership Costs

Sure, it’s a performance car, but don’t forget to factor in the costs.

Maintenance, insurance, and fuel – it all adds up. My advice is not to think about this stuff pre-purchase, as you don’t want it to put you off buying one of these awesome JDM bullet trains.

If you’re planning on giving it a facelift with mods, be ready to pay the piper. It’s all part of the game, mate, but it’s exciting, and it’s worth it.

Community and Resources

Join the tribe.

Car clubs, online forums, Facebook groups – these are the places you’ll find your new mates.

Swap stories, get tips, and find out what the best mods are. It’s like having your own pit crew, but without the overalls. Joining these communities is your best way to get the most out of your Nissan 370Z – trust me.

So, there you have it, a dive into the world of the Nissan 370Z, where power meets excitement, and every drive feels like a scene from an action movie.

Buckle up, hit the gas, and let the Aussie roads be your playground.

Cheers!