Your local tyre shop will happily take your hard-earned Aussie bucks for a new tyre rather than offer you a quick and cheap repair. You can’t blame them really – they need to make money – so how do you know when your tyre can be repaired as a cheaper alternative?

This guide will cover various types of punctures, which can be repaired, and which can’t. We’ll compare the cost of tyre repair in Australia vs new tyres, and help you decide which option is best for you.

Lastly we’ll look at repairing a car tyre at home, plus all the finer details about car tyre repair.

Related: If you opt for new tyres, make sure you read how to save $$$s on new tyres in Australia.

How much does it cost to repair a car tyre in Australia?

In Australia the cost of car tyre repair ranges from $20 to $50 a tyre depending on the severity of the damage, type of repair needed, or who you pay to have the tyre repaired. If you live in a remote area you may understandably have to pay more.

If the tyre is fairly new then a tyre repair may be a better option than forking out $100 to $700 on a new tyre. More so if you need the opposite tyre replaced as well.

Whether you repair or replace a tyre may depend on the severity of damage, use of vehicle, or how much tread you have left on the tyre (see the “Tread Wear Indicators” section).

How do you know if your tyre has a puncture?

Although flat tyres are almost certainly a puncture (or faulty valve), smaller punctures can occur which are harder to notice.

It may not come as a surprise the #1 cause of punctured tyres in Australia are screws and nails. Are tradies working on your block?

Usually a nail will cause a slow puncture which may go a few weeks without noticing. Steering and suspension may begin to feel slightly different, or you may not notice until you park with your tyres at a certain angle and notice one is slightly ballooned at the bottom.

Here are common signs you have a puncture:

• Flat tyre.
• Steering pulls to one side or cornering feels less responsive.
• Suspension may feel softer than usual.
• The bottom of one tyre is bulged out more than the others.
• A thumping or thudding sound or vibration prior to a blow out. You may also experience a sense heavy wind blowing the car (similar sensation).
• Your neighbour shouts Hey mate, your tyre looks flat.

Common causes of tyre punctures

There are four main causes of tyre punctures which can cause either slow or rapid deflation of a tyre. The type of puncture will help you decide next steps:

• Sharp object penetrating tyre such as a screw or nail.
• Failure of a tyre’s valve stern, either when the tyre was replaced or due to dirt and debris in the valve (the reason you should always have tyre valve caps fitted).
• Breakage of the link between a tyre and rim, usually from a collision with a kerb, pot hole, or other external object.
• Excessively worn out tread causing explosive tyre failure or debris from the road tearing through the tyre

How is a tyre repaired?

We know our tyres are the #1 most important safety aspect of the car, so if you’re concerned about a tyre repair being safe then don’t worry. A tyre repairer will inform you if the tyre can be repaired safety, and assuming the puncture isn’t near the tyre wall then your tyre can be made as good as new.

A tyre repairer will adhere to Australian Tyre Repair Standards, and if this is not possible will inform you the tyre must be replaced.

There are two industry recommended repair methods. The first is a two-piece stem and patch repair, or a one-piece patch/stem combination repair.

The 3 primary considerations when repairing a puncture are:

• Evaluate the damage the object has caused.
• Reestablish an airtight seal of the tyre’s inner liner.
• Completely fill the path the object took through the tyre.

In general, the process of repairing a tyre is as follows:

• The tyre technician will locate the hole with soapy water or within a vessel of water.
• The hole is reamed to clean it, and the inner liner is prepped with a rasp.
• A liberal dose of rubber cement is applied to the area where the patch will rest, then a plug-patch is inserted.
• A plug fills the void in the tyre and provides some sealing.
• The patch is then pressed against the inner liner, completing the seal.
• The tyre is re-installed on the rim and rebalanced.

Typically, a mushroom-shaped patch and plug combination repair is the best method of repairing a punctured radial tyre.

Tyre patches alone and tyre plugs alone are not acceptable tyre repairs. The only approved tyre repair is the combination plug-patch style. In the workshop, the tyre is removed from the wheel and repaired in line with the Australian Tyre Repair Standard.

1. Take the tyre off and repair both sides

A tyre cannot be fully repaired from the outside. A temporary repair can be achieved with an external plug, but do not consider this a safe repair.

To comply with Australian Tyre Repair Standards it is necessary to remove and inspect the interior of the tyre for hidden damage, and seal the puncture both internally and externally.

2. Fill puncture path

A tyre repair must fill the path the object took through the tyre.

If this is not done properly, moisture can seep in from the opening of the puncture and reach the steel belts and/or casing cords. This exposure can cause rusting or deterioration and further compromise the structural integrity of the tyre.

3. Treat inner tube

To repair the inner liner it must be cleaned, buffed, cemented, patched and coated to restore its ability to retain air. This can only be done from inside the tyre and another reason why plug-only repair is unwise.

Can you repair a tyre at home?

Keeping in mind your tyres are one of the main safety aspects of your car, and a tyre fitter will perform the repair inline with Australian Tyre Repair Standards, it is possible to repair your tyre at home.

Dune offer a 4WD Premium Tyre Repair Kit (available from Anaconda). Although being marketed for 4WD enthusiasts, such as to repair a punctured tyre on an off-road jaunt, the kit is suitable for repairing tyres on a passenger car, 4WD, ATV, or truck.

Here’s a video to get you started:

How to decide whether to repair or replace a car tyre

There are general considerations which will help you decide whether to repair or replace a tyre. Your main two considerations will be the extent of damage, but also how much longevity is left in the tyre.

Important considerations (and when not to repair a tyre)

If the puncture is larger than 6mm you should never repair a tyre.

A sidewall puncture in your tyre is unrepairable. The sidewall and tyre shoulder area flex a great deal, which means tyre patches would quickly come loose. Instead, your tyre will need to be replaced.

Impacting a kerb or hitting large potholes can crack your rim where the tyre bead seals. If you’ve hit something and your tyre is now flat, you may require additional repairs above and beyond a tyre repair, such as rim repair or replacement.

If the tyre has been repaired previously then consider the structural integrity may be too compromised by an additional repair, especially if the puncture is in a similar area. The number of repairs may be limited by the tyre manufacturer’s recommendations and repair policy.

How used is the tyre?

Tread Wear Indicators give you a good idea of how much life is in the tyre, but you should also consider how damaged the tyre may be from road debris or collisions with hard objects.

How long did you drive on a punctured tyre, and how deflated was the tyre?

Driving on a flat tyre for any distance can severely damage the structural integrity of the tyre, making it more necessary to replace the tyre instead.

Age of the tyre is also a factor, or whether your vehicle has remained stationary for lengthy periods of time.

If you are in any doubt, seek the advice of a local tyre repairer.

Tread wear indicators

All road going tyres are legally required to have Tread Wear Indicators (TWI).

For vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) of 4.5 tonnes or less, a tyre must have a tread pattern around its circumference that is at least 1.5mm deep across the surface area of the tyre which comes in contact with the road. These are small raised platforms of rubber moulded into the main tread grooves.

You should be able to locate the TWI by following the indicators in the shoulder of the tyre:

• Look for the letters TWI. 
• A small triangular arrow head shape (see below).
• Sometimes by a company brand logo , (Goodyear ‘Wingfoot’ the ‘Michelin Man’, etc.)

Once you have found the tyre wear indicators you can determine if they are worth repairing or replacing. There is no point repairing a tyre if it will need to be replaced in the next 6 to 12 months regardless, and never repair a tyre without 1.6mm of tread as an absolute minimum.

Run flat tyres

If your car has run flat tyres it is unlikely these can be repaired. You can consult the tyre manufacturer for their repair policy.

Run flat tyres (otherwise known as mobility) tyres are becoming more popular as an original equipment manufacturer’s fitment to new cars, particularly for BMWs. This technology allows you to get home and to the store safely at a reduced speed and range without the need to change the tyre.

The speed restriction for run flat tyres is generally 80 km/h with a distance restriction to travel less than 80km on these tyres.

For advice on run flat and self sealing tyres it is best to ask your local tyre shop. Run flat tyre repairs would be conducted in accordance with the Australian Tyre standard and in line with product specific recommendations from the world class manufacturers.

Manufacturers policy on repaired tyres

The warranty of a tyre may or may not be compromised by a tyre repair. This will depend on the tyre manufacturer’s policy.

When it comes to speed ratings, some manufacturers allow this to be retained if the specified multi-step repair procedure is followed exactly, by a professional tyre repairer. However, because manufacturers have no control over the state of the puncture or the quality of the repair, they often consider the high speed capability of a tyre to be compromised.

Final thoughts on tyre repair

Ultimately the decision to repair or replace a tyre is up to you.

If a tyre is repaired professionally in conformance of the Australian Tyre Wear Standards there is no reason the tyre won’t offer you maximum longevity. However, replacing a punctured tyre will mitigate any risk you face from a poor repair or subsequent damage in the future.

If in doubt, seek the advice of a tyre repair professional or purchase a new tyre (or new set of tyres).

If you decide to replace tyres, read our guide on how you can save a great deal of money in doing so.

If you have any further thoughts or questions on tyre repair, get in touch or add a comment below.

Are we overpaying, and if so, what are we overpaying on?

Usually tyre fitment ranges from $15 to $50 for an average tyre, plus tyre cost, but you can easily pay double. Prices go up exponentially the bigger your rim, or the more serious your roadster or off-roadster. For example, I kitted my Mitsubishi Delica out with Bridgestone KO2s in 15″ for HALF THE PRICE of the 16″ equivalents (ironically the Land Cruiser target market).

In this article we’ll look at how you can figure out how much you’re paying for the tyre, and how much you’re paying for someone to fit it. Only then can you really know what you’re paying for.

We’ll also cover choosing the right tyre, and how to avoid being an utter mug and overspending unnecessarily.

I amazed myself writing this article. Seriously. You’ll see how I saved $352 on one set of tyres, and better rated sports tyres at that (suitable for a Lamborghini). I kid you not, that’s $352 savings on tyres for my Honda Civic daily driver.

Don’t believe me? Read on:

Your biggest savings – Choosing the right tyre

I can’t stress this enough, but most of us choose the best, most premium tyre we can buy. Especially if we have a car we love, and we love our cars.

The problem with this is premium tyres (like W rated), cost $$$s more because they can withstand speeds of 270 km/h. I don’t drive at those speeds on Australian roads, and I bet you don’t too. No matter how much you hoon.

Top brands like Michelin, Bridgestone, and Pirelli might be the only brands you’ll choose, but did you know some of their mid-range tyres are perfectly capable of withstanding your cornering antics, and cost far less than their flagship brands which command the biggest profits?

If you’re not a brand wh*re, then the likes of Yokohama, Toyo, and Kumho can be really good too. Sometimes better. I swear the Toyo Proxes R888r tyres were the grippiest, most fun tyres I ever ran on my Honda CRX, and I recommend you don’t turn your nose up at such brands.

I talk at length about finding the best cheap tyres here, but if you want to know how to find out exactly how much you’re paying for the tyre, and exactly how much you’re paying for fitment, and save money on both, then keep reading.

How to find the real price of tyres – and finding the best deal

You could ask at Tyrepower or Bob Jane T-Marts for a breakdown, but you may be none the wiser. Thankfully I’ve found an easier way, and that’s using the search tool on Tyroola.

If you don’t know who they are, then they’re an online Australian tyre retailer who send the tyres to a local tyre fitter of your choice. The best thing about them is transparency, and you’ll exactly what I mean as you read on.

Firstly, go to their website (linky above), and click the “Find Tyres” button on the homepage. Grab the numbers from your current car tyre (Width, Profle, and Rim Size) and enter them in like below. Then click “View Car Tyres”.

This will give you a list of tyres prices without fitting. This is a great way of finding out exactly what you’re paying for the tyre itself.

For the search above I was given three recommended tyres – Premium (Bridgestone), Value (Hankook), and Budget (Winrun) – with a huge difference in price. $167 for the Bridgestones, H rated to take a sports coupe to 210 km/h, down to 60 bucks for the budget Winrun’s, also capable of taking a sports coupe to 210 km/h.

That’s the difference between $668 for 4 x Bridgestones, or $240 for the Winruns, and both are rated the same (H). That makes the budget tyres almost one third of the price! That may suit you perfectly, but keep in mind cheaper tyres can be noisier, less grippy, or suffer in wet weather – reading reviews should give you a better idea.

* Note - Please expect prices to differ from the above. We know all too well how much prices of everything are rising, and it is very likely tyre prices will be higher at the time you read this guide! 

I actually found a gem by scrolling down a bit – Kumho ECOWING‘s with 15% off for only 100 bucks a corner!

That makes the Kumho’s much cheaper than the Bridgestone’s, and an even better rated tyre (V rated, for 240 km/h) suitable for sports cars. That’s a stonking $268 saving over the Bridgestone’s, and a better rated tyre to boot. For me I really didn’t want to opt for the Winruns as I’m not a Sunday driver, so the Kumho’s are the perfect middle ground for what I want, and much cheaper than the big brand name.

Before we find out the price of the tyre fitment (labour), why not nip over to Tyroola yourself. What deals can you find?

Then of course, come back here, and read on. More money saving tips to come!

How to find the real price of tyre fitting – and hidden costs

Continuing from the above, now we’ve found a tyre we’re interested in simply click it to see further details.

It’s well worth checking out the finer details and customer reviews to give you a better understanding of the tyre itself. Check out other reviews as well, not just those on a retailer website. Don’t be too put off by “noisier tyres”, as most modern cars are so well insulated you won’t notice any difference whatsoever – I know this for a fact having just returned from a three week 4,000km road trip on Yokohama Blue Efficiencys, apparently noisier than most.

On the tyre details page you’ll be given a fitted total inclusive of “tyre protect” which is basically a 1 year warranty (I removed that because I’m a bargain hunter).

But now for the interesting bit…

You also have the option to select a FITTING SERVICE – this is exactly how you’ll find the real cost of labour to fit your tyres. You may be surprised how much tyre fitting prices can vary.

Like most cool people, I live in Scarborough, Western Australia. I was surprised how many options I had for tyre fitters in my area, and some of them come right to my door:

You can see from above the labour part of buying new tyres will set me back between $108 and $192. That’s a big difference when you consider how many pints of beer you can buy with the difference in cost.

With such a range of tyre fitters it’s easy to choose one suitable for you. A really nice benefit of finding tyres on Tyroola is you can choose a tyre fitter which suits you – one which is highly rated, a mobile tyre fitter who will come to you (handy if you have a flat at home), or one which saves you a lot of money.

You can also clearly see additional costs. In the screenshot above you can se the tyre fitter on Cleaver St offers a really good price for tyre fitting, which is attractive despite their current lack of reviews, but wheel alignment would set you back an additional $90. Wheel alignment is recommended, but it’s good to see the difference in price between tyre fitters.

It’s really beneficial to me to have complete control over what I buy, and the transparency of buying tyres through an online platform like Tyroola can really save money in these modern days of technology and tyres at our fingertips.

I hope this guide has helped! If it has, all we ask is for you to tell your mates about this guide so they can save money too!

$352 savings on one set of tyres!

If you’ve been tapping away on your calculator while reading this guide to finding the real price of tyre fitting, you may realise I’ve saved myself $352 (or thereabouts).

If I opted for the budget Winruns I would’ve saved a further $160! That’s $512 cheaper fitted than the Bridgestones!

Most Aussies would’ve taken the first tyre recommendation, the H rated Bridgestone ECOPIA at $167+ per corner. This is because we generally pick a brand name we’ve heard is good, and usually the best (or first) recommendation.

Instead I found the Kumho’s much cheaper, on offer, and as an added bonus with a better V rating. Even though I have no plans to drive my road car on Perth streets at 240 km/h, I know from other car enthusiasts they’re a perfectly good, perfectly respectable tyre.

That’s a big saving over the Bridgestone’s, which I know are rated higher than what I need, and I also know I’d be paying quite a bit for the name.

Secondly, being given the choice to choose a reputable local independent tyre fitter which suits my needs also allowed me to save money. I actually went with the cheapest, which meant travelling 18km, but they did a perfectly good job and it saved me hard earned bucks.

I know I’ve used Tyroola as an example throughout this article. I checked the prices of local tyre fitters as well, and I’m happy to say Tyroola got me the best deal.

For example, what size tyre for an 8 inch rim would be 215mm to 245mm with an ideal width of between 225mm and 235mm. Fitting a tyre outside of the minimum or maximum widths will compromise safety and drivability.

Before you buy tyres make sure you read how we saved $352 on tyres for a daily drive Honda Civic – simple reasons why most Australians overpay on car tyres.

REFERENCE: What Size Tyre for Your Rim?

Please note: Fitting the maximum tyre size for rim width should be done with caution and may affect drivability. Exceeding the maximum tyre width will compromise safety.

The recommended tyre size for rim width will achieve optimal safety and drivability.

Yes, you can stretch the limit if you want style over functionality, but keep in mind you will also sacrifice safety and usability. We advise using a sensible tyre to rim size ratio, ideally the recommended rim width to tyre width stated above.

When it comes to choosing a tyre you should consider performance, safety, and overall driving experience before any fashion or style. Tyres are one of the most important parts of your car which affect safety.

Tyres play a crucial role in keeping traction, handling, and stability on the road. Always monitor the condition of your tyres and replace when necessary.

Whether you’re cruising in a compact car, SUV, ute, or 4×4 beast, make sure you choose the right tyre width for your rim size to maximise your vehicle’s performance and safety on or off the road.

What size tyre for a 5 inch rim?

Minimum 155mm, Ideal 165mm to 175mm, Maximum 185mm.

What size tyre for a 5.5 inch rim?

Minimum 165mm, Ideal 175mm to 185mm, Maximum 195mm.

What size tyre for a 6 inch rim?

Minimum 175mm, Ideal 185mm to 195mm, Maximum 205mm.

What size tyre for a 6.5 inch rim?

Minimum 185mm, Ideal 195mm to 205mm, Maximum 215mm.

What size tyre for a 7 inch rim?

Minimum 195mm, Ideal 205mm to 215mm, Maximum 225mm.

What size tyre for a 7.5 inch rim?

Minimum 205mm, Ideal 215mm to 225mm, Maximum 235mm.

What size tyre for a 8 inch rim?

Minimum 215mm, Ideal 225mm to 235mm, Maximum 245mm.

What size tyre for a 8.5 inch rim?

Minimum 225mm, Ideal 235mm to 245mm, Maximum 255mm.

What size tyre for a 9 inch rim?

Minimum 235mm, Ideal 245mm to 255mm, Maximum 265mm.

What size tyre for a 9.5 inch rim?

Minimum 245mm, Ideal 255mm to 265mm, Maximum 275mm.

What size tyre for a 10 inch rim?

Minimum 255mm, Ideal 265mm to 275mm, Maximum 285mm.

What size tyre for a 10.5 inch rim?

Minimum 265mm, Ideal 275mm to 285mm, Maximum 295mm.

What size tyre for a 11 inch rim?

Minimum 275mm, Ideal 285mm to 295mm, Maximum 305mm.

What size tyre for a 11.5 inch rim?

Minimum 285mm, Ideal 295mm to 305mm, Maximum 315mm.

What size tyre for a 12 inch rim?

Minimum 295mm, Ideal 305mm to 315mm, Maximum 325mm.

What size tyre for a 12.5 inch rim?

Minimum 305mm, Ideal 315mm to 325mm, Maximum 335mm.

When we say “change a car tyre” usually we mean changing one wheel over for a spare wheel, rather than the tyre itself. We’ll cover that first, but if you want to know how long it takes to change the actual tyre we’ll cover that as well.

How long does it take to change a car tyre (as in, the wheel)?

When I worked as a mechanic the typical time to change a wheel (or corner as we would say) would be 10 minutes.

If you get a flat tyre on the roadside and know what you’re doing it can take around 20 minutes give or take. If you’ve never changed a tyre before then probably a bit longer, and you should be very careful if you don’t know what you’re doing.

This is how:

How to change a car tyre when you get a flat:

1. Preparation (1-2 minutes) – Park the car in a safe location, turn on your hazard lights, and make sure your parking brake is on. Gather all necessary tools and your spare tyre from the boot or underneath.
2. Loosening Lug Nuts (2-5 minutes) – Use a lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the flat tyre. Loosen them but do not remove them completely at this stage.
3. Lifting the Car (2-3 minutes) – Use a jack to lift the car off the ground. Follow the car manufacturer’s instructions for proper jack placement and lifting procedure. The jack point is often a few inches along from the wheel arch and looks like a notch, being a flat spot suitable for taking the weight.
4. Removing the Flat Tyre (2-3 minutes) – Once the tyre is a little way off the ground, finish removing the loosened lug nuts and take off the flat tyre. Place it aside, or underneath the car if you want a bit of safety in case the car drops (which is shouldn’t).
5. Installing the Spare Tyre (2-3 minutes) – Carefully mount the spare tyre onto the wheel hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts as much as possible. Use the lug wrench a little if you feel you can’t tightened the nuts suitably by hand.
6. Lowering the Car (2-3 minutes) – Slowly lower the car back to the ground using the jack.
7. Tightening Lug Nuts (5-10 minutes) – Use the lug wrench to securely tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Refer to your car’s manual for the recommended torque specifications. Make sure they are tightened properly to ensure your tyre is safe. If in doubt drive sensibly to your nearest tyre fitted and get a pro to ensure safety.
8. Double-Checking (1-2 minutes) – Recheck the tightness of the lug nuts to ensure they are secure.
9. Stowing Equipment (1-2 minutes) – Put away the jack, lug wrench, and any other tools.
10. Final Inspection (1-2 minutes) – Check the tyre pressure in the spare tire to ensure it’s inflated to the correct level. This might not be possible at the roadside, but at the very least ensure the spare tyre looks suitable inflated.

If you have any concerns make sure you drive safely home or to a safe location. Tyre companies such as Tyroola can come and replace your tyres at home, which is well worth looking into for a fresh set of tyres.

How long does it take to change a tyre on a wheel rim?

Changing the tyre on the rim, also known as tyre replacement or tyre mounting, typically involves removing the old tyre from the rim and installing a new one.

The time required for this process can vary depending on factors such as your experience, the type of tyre, and the equipment available.

If you get a puncture off-roading on Lancelin dunes or some other off-road area of Australia (or on road for that matter) then it’s possible to change a tyre yourself if you have a spare, but you probably won’t have the right equipment though. I’ve had to ghetto fix a tyre on a beach once, with some effort.

Here’s a general overview of the steps involved in switching out one tyre for another on a rim:

1. Safety Precautions – Ensure you have safety gear such as gloves and eye protection. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported and the parking brake is engaged.
2. Remove the Wheel – If the wheel is still on the vehicle, you may need to remove it. This usually involves removing the lug nuts and taking off the wheel.
3. Deflate the Old Tyre – If the old tyre still has air, use a tyre pressure gauge to deflate it completely. Be cautious when removing the valve cap, as some air may release rapidly.
4. Break the Bead – The tyre bead is the edge of the tyre that sits on the rim. Use a tyre bead breaker tool to break the bead on both sides of the tyre. This may require some force.
5. Remove the Old Tyre – Once the bead is broken, use tyre irons or tire spoons to carefully pry the old tyre off the rim. Work your way around the rim until the tyre is completely removed.
6. Inspect the Rim: Examine the rim for any damage or corrosion. Clean the rim if necessary.
7. Mount the New Tyre – Lubricate the tyre bead and rim edge with tyre mounting lubricant to make installation easier. Carefully place the new tyre onto the rim, ensuring it’s properly aligned.
8. Inflate the Tyre – Use a tyre inflator to gradually inflate the new tyre to the recommended pressure. Be cautious not to overinflate.
9. Seat the Bead – Ensure that the tyre bead is seated correctly on both sides of the rim. This may require using a bead seater tool or a high-pressure burst of air.
10. Balance the Tyre – If you have access to a tyre balancing machine, balance the tyre to ensure even wear and a smooth ride.
11. Reinstall the Wheel – If you removed the wheel from the vehicle, reinstall it, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to the manufacturer’s specifications.
12. Final Inspection – Double-check the tyre pressure and visually inspect the tyre to ensure it’s properly seated on the rim.

The time required for this process can vary widely based on your experience and the specific tools you have available.

It’s important to take your time and follow safety precautions when changing a tyre on a rim to ensure a safe and secure fit. If you’re unsure about any step of the process, it’s advisable to seek assistance from a professional tyre technician or auto mechanic.

The benefit of rotating your tyres is any uneven tyre wear will become, well, more even. This can significantly extend the tyre life as a whole, saving you a bit of money over the long term.

But how often should you rotate car tyres?

Related: An expert guide to buying quality tyres for an affordable price.

Why Rotate Car Tyres?

Just say the wheel alignment is slightly out on one corner. This tyre will wear out much more quickly than the other three.

Depending on your vehicle, this may mean prematurely having to change all four tyres.

Front tyres tend to wear more quickly than rear tyres. The reason for this is simple – front tyres take more wear from turning.

Did you know a front tyre blow out can be more serious than a rear tyre blow out as you’re more likely to loose control of the vehicle.

Therefore rotating the front and rear tyres can more evenly distribute this tyre wear, extending the life of your four tyres.

What Are The Benefits of Rotating Tyres?

Distributing wear isn’t the only benefit of rotating tyres, although this is the main reason it’s done – to extend longevity.

Periodically rotating tyres also gives you a reason to check tyre wear, tyre pressure, or spot issues such as nails.

Tyre maintenance is very important for your safety, so spotting a problem before and issue occurs is a very good thing.

How Do You Rotate Tyres?

The two simplest methods of rotating car tyres are swapping the front and rears, either on the same side or a cross pattern.

For front-wheel drive cars you may also move the front tyres directly back to the rear, then move the two rear tyres to the opposite front corner.

For rear-wheel drive cars and 4WD the above will be the opposite, so move the two rear directly forward, then move the two front to the opposite rear corner.

If in doubt, stick to one of the first two – these are suitable tyre rotation patterns for any vehicle.

How Often Should You Really Rotate Your Car Tyres?

Most people never rotate their tyres, so don’t panic if this is something you’ve never done before. For most people the only downside of not rotating tyres is they’ll need to be changed slightly sooner.

If you get a tyre shop to rotate your tyres you’ll need to pay them for the work, which may cost you more than replacing your tyres sooner. That said, you do benefit from an expert checking the condition of your tyres.

If you’re able to rotate your tyres at home, every 5,000km can be beneficial. Rotating tyres can be done at home within the space of an hour, fairly easily.

10,000km is still a good period. The lifespan of a tyre can be between 25,000km to 50,000km for normal city driving, or up to 75,000km for more laid-back or freeway driving.

So the question is, how often would you want to rotate your tyres over their average lifespan?

If you expect a tyre to last 25,000km to 50,000km, you could give them one interim rotation between 12,500km and 25,000km at a minimum. This can more evenly balance front versus rear tyre wear.

It’s a regional thing, and tire is the correct spelling in the US and Canada. In British English the correct spelling is tyre.

Australia is a long way from the US, Canada, and Great Britain, but whether we like it or not as Australians we should use tyre as the correct spelling of that rubber stuff which goes on our rims.

So there you have it, the correct answer is tyre is the correct spelling in Australia, and if you spell it as tire you’re incorrect.

That’s why Tyroola is spelt with a y. Otherwise it would be Tiroola, which looks a bit odd.

Hold on, is it spelt or spelled?